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A
BSTRACT
The development of the production of knitwear will lead to the further application of new technologies and
the expansion of the range of knitwear. In the fields of trade industry, as well as in the service sector, the
main requirement is the production of knitwear, which is combined with high manufacturability and wide
distribution, which will lead to low cost, with relatively acceptable consumer characteristics and
parameters. In this regard, the solution to the above problems in the technological part of the production
of knitwear is of particular importance and is necessary. The article explores the features of improving the
technology of production of knitted fabrics using knitted elements, the development of practical methods
for obtaining knitted knitwear based on scientific generalization, the formation of patterns on flat knitting
machines.
K
EYWORDS
Flat knitting machines, knitted fabric produced on double-knit flat knitting machines, design methods
based on elastic weave, with the introduction of a press pattern into the structure.
Journal
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Research Article
THE FEATURES OF PATTERN FORMATION ON FLAT
KNITTING MACHINES
Submission Date:
February 05, 2022,
Accepted Date:
February 13, 2022,
Published Date:
February 25, 2022
Crossref doi:
https://doi.org/10.37547/ijasr-02-02-01
Nizamova Barno Baxtiyorovna
Assistant, Department of Light Industry Technologies and Equipment, Fergana Polytechnic Institute,
Fergana, Uzbekistan
Karimova Xusnida Djuma qizi
Master’s Degree Student, Fergana Polytechnic Institute, Fergana, Uzbekistan
Volume 02 Issue 02-2022
2
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
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2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
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02
Pages:
1-11
SJIF
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FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
I
NTRODUCTION
Currently, issues related to obtaining high-quality
knitted products, as well as expanding its range
are very relevant. Modern fashion trends offer the
design of knitwear with various relief effects. The
range of knitted products and their quality is
mainly determined by the artistic design of the
surface of the fabric by designing its looped
structure. Therefore, the object of study is the
looped structure of knitwear, which allows the
formation of various relief effects on the surface
of the fabric, as well as the influence of the
arrangement of individual motifs in the plane of
the ornament. Knitwear has characteristics that
allow it to be used for the production of products
for various purposes - household and technical.
When changing the filling primary data during the
production of knitwear, it becomes possible to
regulate its various properties, for example,
extensibility. The use of knitted materials and
products tends to expand, while all-new needs
and requirements become stimulating to develop
a qualitatively new range of materials and
products based on fabrics with different
characteristics. All of the above can be achieved
through a combination of new types, both raw
materials and weaves. In this case, both low-
stretch fabrics are obtained, which are close to
fabrics in their characteristics, and fabrics, the
extensibility of which is 100% or more.
In this area of science, fundamental works are
known to obtain new structures of fabrics, expand
the range of knitwear and study the technological
parameters and physical and mechanical
properties of knitwear prof. A.S. Dalidovich, L.V.
Shengelia, I.I. Shalova, L.A. Kudryavina, N.A.
Kuzovkova Yu.S. Grechukhina, V.M. Lazarenko,
I.G. Tsitovich, B.B. Stroganova, V.A. Zavarueva,
A.V. Truevtseva, M.M. Mukimova, K.Z. Yunusova
and others [1-7].
The issues of creating knitted products with
hygienic properties, studying the deformation
properties of knitted fabrics and products are
considered in the research works of such
scientists as prof. HA. Alimova, F.U. Nigmatova,
S.Sh. Tashpulatov, V.S. Rybina, D.U. Aripzhanova.
V.A. Kubliakov [1-4].
At this point, many fabrics are suitable for the
manufacture and creation of knitted materials
and products, incl. sports goods are made using
elastic weaves, where mainly cross-knitting
machines are used [2]. The creation of new warp-
knitted elastic fabrics, as well as the study of their
characteristics, are relevant tasks because they
allow enterprises that operate with the use of
warp-knitting equipment can lead to an increase
in the level of competitiveness of their products.
In the case when the question arises regarding the
determination of the actual values of the main
parameters of the loop structure formation of
warp-knitted elastic knitwear, which turned out
to be close to the theoretical ones, the difference
between the actual and theoretical values ranges
from 0-13%. Therefore, it is possible to use
recommendations on the use of different
software packages that were obtained in the
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Delphi programmed system to design the
characteristics of the loop structure of warp
knitwear in the form of elastic waves. No less
interesting are the works that consider methods
for obtaining integrally moulded parts of
garments using polymer coatings, methods for
assessing the dimensional stability of bulk parts
of garments [3].
It is also noted that the manufacture of knitted
knitwear is one of the main directions for
improving the processes of manufacturing
products. The paper proposes a method for
knitting a two-layer jersey of a new structure,
taking into account the physiological heat-
shielding comfort with reduced consumption of
raw materials [4]. Physiological comfort is
determined during the physical activity of the
div, and heat-shielding comfort is determined
by the feeling of warmth (cold and moisture)
during the evaporation or absorption of sweat
released from the human div. In [5], two-layer
knitwear with reduced consumption of raw
materials for outdoor activities is proposed, in
which one layer is made from a natural type of
fibre, and the second layer is made from synthetic
threads.
The manufacturing sector plays an important role
in the development of the state economy. This fact
is given special attention by Japanese scientists-
statisticians [6-8]. With the acquisition of
independence in Tajikistan, much attention has
also been paid to the manufacturing sector.
Among them, the textile industry has a special
place. The development of the knitwear industry,
an increase in the growth in the productivity of
knitted fabrics and products is clearly expressed
in the development of the economy of Uzbekistan.
For the design of any canvas, one must bear in
mind, first of all, the possibility of manufacturing
a different assortment of products on equipment
of a certain type using patterned weaves with
multi-coloured, as well as textured effects. When
designing products, one should take into account
the effect of the structure-forming elements of
knitwear on the magnitude of the visual
perception of the pattern. Therefore, the issues of
pattern formation are issues of paramount
importance [9]. The use of the needle selection
method directly reveals the characteristics and
repeat capabilities of the pattern formed on the
canvas. In the case of considering the process of
knitting weaves of a patterned type, it becomes
possible to select needles or other working bodies
exclusively on flat knitting machines.
M
ATERIALS AND METHODS
The advantage of the method of knitting knitwear
on flat knitting machines over the method of
knitting the fabric is that after cutting the details
of the product do not require hemming of the
lower edges; the belt and cuffs of the product can
be made with weaves that differ from the weave
with which the frame of the product is connected,
and this finish is one with the main part of the
part. The quality of such products is much better
than those in which the belt and cuffs are hemmed
or seamed with a camp or sleeve. The labour costs
for cutting and sewing operations are also
reduced by 8-11%. Because there are no side
seams and allowances for hem and reduction of
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inter-pattern
waste,
this
method
of
manufacturing products is characterized by a
decrease in the consumption of knitted fabric per
product by 2-5% compared to the method of
knitting and cutting the fabric. At present, the
trend of using various weave structures based on
main and patterned weaves to reduce material
consumption is widely used in the knitting
industry. Extensive work is being done at the
world level on the development of technology and
the production of knitted products on flat knitting
machines since they have wide technological
capabilities both in terms of the weave structure
and in terms of methods for producing knitted
products [9]. Flat knitting machines are widely
used due to the possibility of knitting semi-
regular products on them.
The work [10-12] gives a method for the
production of one-piece knitted products on a
production machine from SHIMA-SEIKI. The
proposed method is carried out on a flat knitting
machine with electronic control. The method
ensures the production of the camp and sleeves
with their simultaneous connection and knitting
of the neckline. The scheme of selection of needles
and transfer of loops during the development of
products is given. At present, much attention in
the world is paid to the use of local raw materials
[13-19], the expansion of the range based on local
resources. The current state of the textile market
creates the prerequisites for expanding the
assortment base of raw materials based on local
resources [20–24].
We consider the technological scheme for
obtaining coupon sections on a circular machine
[22-27]. On the machine, the needle guides are
arranged in such a way that the lower needle
guide with a low heel is opposite the upper needle
guide with a high heel and vice versa. The pushers
are arranged in this way: two with high heels,
then two with low heels. The knitting of the camp
of the previous coupon ends with the formation of
loops with all the needles in the lower cylinder.
Before starting to knit a new product, the fixing
rows are first knitted, as well as the dividing rows.
Subsequently, they start knitting the second row.
In the looping system, 4 needles with sufficiently
elevated heels are transferred from the side of the
lower cylinder to the side of the upper one. The
transmission of needles occurs through one. For
this, the lower transmission and side wedges are
included. The edge of the onboard wedge acts
only on the high heels of the needle guides,
directing them into the knitting channel, and the
needle guides with low heels move along the non-
knitting channel and the needles that are engaged
with them do not knit, but hold the old loops. In
this case, the knitting of the surface in the upper
cylinder through the needle takes place. The
knitting of the camp of the previous coupon ends
with the formation of loops with all needles in the
lower cylinder. Before knitting a new product,
fastening and separating rows are knitted. Next,
the second row is knitted. In the loop-forming
system, 4 needles with high heels are transferred
from the lower cylinder to the upper one. The
transmission of needles occurs through one. For
this, the lower transmission and side wedges are
included. The edge of the onboard wedge acts
only on the high heels of the needle guides,
directing them into the knitting channel, and the
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needle guides with heels move along the non-
knitting channel and the needles that are engaged
with them do not knit, but hold the old loops. In
this case, the knitting of the surface in the upper
cylinder through the needle takes place.
Flat knitting machines are machines of a universal
type that allow for quick reloading to create
materials and products of a new type, dimensions
and weave, which have great patterning
capabilities. The developed new equipment is
aimed at the automatic production of piece
products, saving raw materials and reducing the
time of creating products by eliminating sewing
operations. Over the past 30-40 years there has
been rapid progress in computing technologies.
The economic and social transformations that
arose on this basis have changed everything that
happened in the past. In the developed countries
of the world, there are also tendencies to reduce
the consumption of raw materials, while not
losing product quality. With the improvement
and expansion of the technological capabilities of
flat
knitting
machines,
world-famous
manufacturers of knitting equipment such as
STOLL, SHIMA-SEIKI are engaged [27-31].
The desire to obtain whole-knitted knitwear on
flat knitting machines is a modern trend at the
world level [31-37]. The expansion of the
technological capabilities of flat knitting
machines and the range of products for outer
knitwear and children's assortment is one of the
topical issues in this period [32-39]. On this basis,
we have chosen a flat-fan machine, studied its
advantages and disadvantages, the possibility of
improving production technology, while not
losing quality and achieving savings in raw
materials. We set the goal of developing a
technology for the development of new weaves
on a flat knitting machine. The development of
such technology makes it possible: to develop
coupons with a separating row, as a result, and
with a non-ravelling edge of the product; expand
the technological capabilities of flat-fan
machines; save raw materials consumption and
reduce the amount of waste; improve the quality
of products, improving their consumer
properties.
Depending on the weave, texture, composition of
the designed model of a knitted product, the
choice of knitting equipment is carried out [37-
41]. In this case, knitwear can be made in the
following ways:
Cutting (first, the flooring of the canvas is
prepared from several layers, then the details
of the product are cut, after that, they are
connected in the sewing process to give the
necessary shape);
Semi-regular (knitted fabric is knitted in the
form of coupons; common in the manufacture
of upper knitwear, underwear);
Regular (products are knitted entirely
without seams or individual parts are knitted
along the contour, and then sewn together).
In the production of the top range, knit&wear
(3D) machines are of particular interest,
according to the regular method of knitwear
production. For products created in this way,
there is no need for assembly, only the WTO will
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be enough. Such equipment includes electronic
flat knitting machines manufactured by SHIMA-
SEIKI, UNIVERSAL, STOLL, BOOSAN and others
[39-43]. The equipment of the new generation is
characterized by high technological capabilities
due to the use of constructively new mechanisms,
such as sinkers, pull-back mechanisms, additional
needle beds. Almost all the main mechanisms of
the machines have undergone significant
changes. For example, program control
mechanisms have gone from mechanical to
electronic; program carriers - from typesetting
circuits and punched cards to a floppy and optical
disks for computers, etc. Therefore, it is of
interest to consider the design features of the
latest flat knitting machines and their
technological capabilities [43-45].
R
ESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Fundamentals of the formation of patterns of flat-
knitting colour fabrics.
To realize the advantages of flat knitting
machines, an artist-technologist needs to master
the basics of knitting technology, know the
patterning capabilities of machines, and the basic
principles of pattern formation using selection
mechanisms. One of the most acute problems,
especially in connection with the transition to
market relations, is the problem of the
assortment flexibility of production to changes in
market conditions. This problem can be solved by
the widespread use of computer technology in the
control of technological processes for obtaining
canvases.
Currently,
abroad,
computer
technology has found its wide application in a 3D
format both in the technological and educational
process, as well as in the analysis process. On flat
knitting machines, four methods of selecting
needles are used: general, group, individual and
combined. With general and group selection,
needles are selected all at the same time or in
groups. For group selection, needles with high,
medium and low heels or needles with heels
located at different distances from the needle
head are used. Additional auxiliary elements are
also used in the form of pushers equipped with
heels of different lengths, or with heels located at
different levels along with the height of the
pusher.
All working bodies (needles and pushers) are pre-
arranged on the machine following a given
pattern. The general and group selection of
needles is carried out on flat knitting machines
with the help of machine locks. To obtain a variety
of patterns, individual selection of needles is used,
performed
using
selection
mechanisms
containing a knitting program for a pattern. The
executive bodies of such mechanisms are the
selection plates and drums. In combined needle
selection, two or three of the selection methods
listed above are used simultaneously. Formation
and design of coloured patterned structures of
weaves on canvases.
The principle of obtaining patterned weaves is
that each of the threads of different colours is laid
only on certain needles included in the work, in
the order that depends on the pattern. At the
same time, if a new thread is laid on the needles
selected according to the pattern, then the old
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loops from these needles must be discarded; all
other needles that are not involved in the work
are idle without forming loops. Patterned
knitwear from flat knitting machines, along with
other types of knitwear, has become widespread.
Patterned weaves, depending on the design of the
selection mechanism available on the flat knitting
machine, make it possible to obtain a variety of
colour patterns of simple and complex shapes.
These drawings can be, in the simplest case, an
alternation of coloured stripes, a combination of
various rectangles and squares, and also consist
of complex elements arranged in rapport or
coupon.
Drawings of a small rapport. The simplest type of
patterned fabric is needle jacquard, which is
patterned knitwear obtained without the use of a
jacquard mechanism. The colour pattern on the
needle jacquard is formed by combining
elongated front loops with ordinary front loops of
one of the smooth weaves: satin stitch, eraser,
fang, semi-fang. A characteristic feature of needle
jacquard patterns is the formation of pattern
elements on the canvas, which can only have a
rectangular shape and consist of a combination of
coloured rectangles or squares against a
background of vertical and horizontal coloured
stripes. Depending on the pattern, the width of
the vertical stripes can be any. Their dimensions
are determined by grouping the needles of the
two positions before threading the machine. The
width of the horizontal stripes formed by
periodically switching the thread guides threaded
with threads of different colours is set by the
program of the colouring machine. Large rapport
drawings. The formation of colour patterns of
large rapport is possible only on flat knitting
machines equipped with selection mechanisms. A
complex arrangement of patterned pushers
allows you to get a variety of patterns with several
vertical axes of symmetry. In the process of
performing
the
dissertation
work,
the
technological capabilities of both circular knitting
and flat knitting machines were deeply
investigated and studied, new variants of pattern
repeats were developed [79].
In the variants, elements of the motif of a
geometric ornament with the corresponding
symmetrical repetition of rapport are selected
and used. Symmetry is a property of a figure (or
an ornamental motif) superimposed on itself in
such a way that all its points occupy their original
position. Symmetry is characteristic of both
organic and inorganic nature. In the visual arts,
symmetry is widespread, being one of the
important means of constructing an art form.
Symmetry finds its greatest use in ornamentation,
usually being present in any ornamental
composition or its elements. Symmetry is one of
the most common forms of manifestation of the
rhythmic beginning in the ornament. In the
theory of ornament, it has a special place.
Consider the main types of symmetry used in the
composition of ornaments. These types of
symmetry, are symmetrical transformations of
figures in the process of forming various motifs
and compositions, depending on the use of such
basic elements of symmetry, the translation axis,
the plane of sliding reflection. Antisymmetry. A
figure painted in one colour can be equal to a
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figure painted in another colour. The positive
relief form (bulge) can be equal to the negative
one (recess). This kind of equality is called the
opposite equality, or antisymmetry. To depict
equal and anti-equal figures, black and white
colours are used. Therefore, two-colour black-
and-white or other colours of figures can serve as
models of antisymmetric figures. Antisymmetric
figures are widely used in the ornamentation of
fabrics and knitted fabrics. The possibilities of
antisymmetry in ornamental compositions are
very large. The artist can use them taking into
account the colouristic, technological and other
solutions of the composition.
C
ONCLUSION
The use of knitted materials and products tends
to expand, while all-new needs and requirements
become stimulating to develop a qualitatively
new range of materials and products based on
fabrics with different characteristics. All of the
above can be achieved through a combination of
new types, both raw materials and weaves. An
analysis of the directions for expanding the range
and improving the structure of knitwear showed
that special attention should be paid to the
development of effective technologies for
obtaining weave structures with the addition of
patterned elements.
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