Volume 02 Issue 05-2022
23
American Journal Of Applied Science And Technology
(ISSN
–
2771-2745)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
05
Pages:
23-28
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.582
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
ABSTRACT
The Uster HVI system evaluates the colour of medium staple cotton fibre based on the international universal standard
and replaces the subjective visual colour assessment of Uzbek cotton fibre determined by the classifier with an
objective instrumental measurement.
KEYWORDS
Cotton fibre colour, quality, international universal standard, HVI system, yellowing, whiteness level, reflectance,
USDA, integration, organoleptic, classifiers, standards - a set of appearance samples.
INTRODUCTION
Cotton is the main textile raw material processed all
over the world. Despite strong competition for the
cultivation of man-made fibres, the share of cotton in
total fibre consumption remains high. The quality
classification of cotton fibre plays a very important role
in the global cotton trade. Traditionally, cotton fibre is
Research Article
COTTON MEDIUM FIBRE COLOUR ASSESSMENT
Submission Date:
May 01, 2022,
Accepted Date:
May 10, 2022,
Published Date:
May 22, 2022
Crossref doi:
https://doi.org/10.37547/ajast/Volume02Issue05-05
Yuldashali Ergashev
Associate Professor of the Department of Natural Fibres, Fergana Polytechnic Institute, Fergana, Uzbekistan
Dilshodjon Akhmadjonov
Master’s degree student, Fergana Polytechnic Institute, Fergana, Uzbekistan
Journal
Website:
https://theusajournals.
com/index.php/ajast
Copyright:
Original
content from this work
may be used under the
terms of the creative
commons
attributes
4.0 licence.
Volume 02 Issue 05-2022
24
American Journal Of Applied Science And Technology
(ISSN
–
2771-2745)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
05
Pages:
23-28
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.582
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
evaluated by cotton classifiers in an organoleptic-visual
way. However, pricing for a person is subjective and
may not meet the needs of consumers. Today it is
planned to replace the subjective visual assessment,
determined by the class, with an objective
instrumental measurement [1-3]. To date, there are
many methods, techniques and devices for measuring
the quality of cotton fibre. Some of them are designed
to measure certain parameters of cotton fibre. For
example Microner, Pressly, Stelometer, Fibrograph,
Thermal detector and others. There are also measuring
systems that allow a comprehensive assessment of the
quality of cotton fibre, such as Uster HVI (High Volume
Instrument), Premier ART, AFIS (Advanced Fibre
Information System), IsoTester, FibroLab and UAK.
These devices and systems provide producers, traders
and spinners of cotton fibre with valuable information
that can be used not only to classify cotton fibre but
also to predict fibre characteristics [4-9].
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Cotton fibre colour measurement. The colour of cotton
fibre is one of the most important properties that
determine the quality classification. The colour of
cotton fibre can be influenced by many factors
associated with its cultivation: rainfall, changing
climatic conditions, insects, fungi, soil, grass and
cotton leaves, humidity and temperature during
cotton licking and storage [10-14].
Thus, the deterioration of the colour affects the
processing efficiency of cotton and at the same time its
price value. Colour deterioration also affects the ability
of the fibres to absorb and retain dyes. The assessment
of the colour of cotton fibre is usually carried out by
classifiers by the organoleptic method. Specially
trained classmates classify the cotton fibre sample by
visual comparison with a set of standard appearance
samples in a room equipped with a black desk, the
walls of which are illuminated with 1200 lux light,
painted in matt grey [15-19].
In the 1930s, the USDA began developing an
instrumental colour chart. Two parameters were then
included in the classification of cotton fibre grades:
luminosity reflectance (Rd) and yellowing (+b).
Brightness level (Rd) indicates how bright or dull the
sample is, and yellowness (+b) indicates the degree of
colour pigmentation. The colour of cotton fibre was
determined
instrumentally
using
a
two-filter
colourimeter. This objective method was developed by
Nickerson and Hunter in the early 1940s to test USDA
cotton quality standards. In the 1970s, colourimeter
technology was integrated into the HVI [20-24].
In the colour measurement process, cotton fibre is
placed on a glass sample and compressed to a
predetermined pressure:
a)
The light from the lamps is returned, filtered and
returned by the photodiodes.
b)
The values are measured.
The reflectance describes how bright, white or dull.
The cotton fibre colour type is determined by the
location of the intersection points on the Nickerson
and Hunter diagrams of the Rd and +b values measured
in the HVI in Figure 1. The light is measured by two
separate detectors. The signals from these detectors
are used to calculate the sample with an accuracy of
tenths of a colour unit (Rd) and (+b). Yellowing on HVI
(+b) is determined using a yellow filter indicating the
degree of pigmentation of the cotton. The yellowing in
HVI (+b) corresponds to the value (+b) shown in the
Nickerson Hunter colour chart. The yellowing (+b) is
used in conjunction with the reflectance value (Rd) to
determine the colour level of the cotton measured on
the instrument [25-28].
Volume 02 Issue 05-2022
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American Journal Of Applied Science And Technology
(ISSN
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2771-2745)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
05
Pages:
23-28
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.582
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
Currently, HVI is considered worldwide as a universal
method for measuring the colour of cotton fibres. In
the HVI system, the fibre colour type is identified by the
three-digit Nickerson-Hunter code "Upland" in
accordance with the International American Universal
Standard for the colour table in Figure 1. The first two
digits of the colour code, according to the International
American Universal Standard, describe the colour
gamut. For a more accurate measurement, each
variable value is divided into squares that indicate the
difference in colour within the variety. The third
number of the colour code identifies the square code
(shown in Figure 1). According to the international
American universal standard, Upland medium staple
cotton fibre must be white. Cotton fibre is divided into
groups depending on the colour, depending on the
different saturation of yellowing: White-white, Light
spotted-slightly spotted, Spotted-spotted, Shade
yellow, and Yellow-spotted-yellow groups. Varieties in
each colour group differ in the degree of darkening due
to increased weediness and adverse weather
conditions, which is expressed in a decrease in the
reflection coefficient and are divided into classifiers as
follows: Good Middling (GM) - good average; Strict
Middling (SM) - hard medium; Middling (Middling) -
medium; Strict Low Middling (SLM) - strictly low
average; Low Middling (LM) - from low to medium;
Strict Good Ordinary (SGO); Good Ordinary (GO) - good
simple; Below Grade (BG) – Standard [24-29].
Figure 1. Nickerson-Hunter colour chart.
Uzbek cotton fibre UzDST 604:2016 Cotton fibre.
According to the specification, the quality of cotton
fibre is determined by three different classification
methods. These are STIC method (HVI); cool method;
Volume 02 Issue 05-2022
26
American Journal Of Applied Science And Technology
(ISSN
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2771-2745)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
05
Pages:
23-28
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.582
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
special methods. The SITC (HVI) method is used to
certify and determine the quality of cotton fibre in
Uzbekistan. The quality indicators of cotton fibre,
determined in the Uster HVI system, are accepted as
mandatory indicators and reference indicators in
accordance with the state standards UzDST 604:2016
and UzDST 3295:2018. However, the Uzbek cotton
fibre is not covered by Colour Grade (colour according
to the American universal standard), which is
determined by the colour and modulus of impurities of
the HVI system [27-31]. This is because only the Rd and
+b values of USDA mountain cotton are integrated into
the HVI based on the Nickerson and Hunter charts of
the Colour Grade cotton fibre, which is determined in
the HVI colour and impurities module system. Due to
adverse weather conditions in the United States, the
colours of the cotton fibre are very different from the
climatic conditions of Uzbekistan. When testing Uzbek
cotton fibre in the GVI system, the results are
disproportionate to the requirements for the colour
and appearance of technical grades of cotton fibre,
given in chapter 5.2.1 of the UzDST 604:2016 standard.
This is due to the fact that the values of luminosity-
reflection coefficient (Rd,%) and the degree of
yellowing (+b) of Uzbek fibres are higher than the Rd
and +b values of USDA mountain cotton.
CONCLUSION
Today, worldwide, HVI is considered the universal
method for measuring the colour of cotton fibres, and
the subjective visual assessment, determined by the
class, is planned to be replaced by objective
instrumental measurement. Therefore, to further
improve the quality of Uzbek fibre in the world market,
it is necessary to use world experience and new
modern technologies. To eliminate the above
shortcomings, it is possible to master the
nomenclature of colour codes in the Nickerson-Hunter
colour table, defined in the colour and impurities
module of the HVI system, and change some state
standards and appearance samples (reference
samples) of Uzbek cotton.
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