Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
1
American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation
(ISSN
–
2771-2753)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
01-07
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.896
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
ABSTRACT
The article presents the results of research on the selection of the composition and development of technology for a
therapeutic and cosmetic lotion based on the plant polyextract “Phytoinflam”, intended for the prevention and
treatment of acne. Lotion samples have been developed that differ in the type and concentration of the preservative,
moisturizer and dispersion medium. The obtained samples were analyzed in accordance with the requirements of
GOST 31679-
2012 “Liquid cosmetic products. General technical conditions”. Based on the results of the analysis, the
optimal composition of the therapeutic and cosmetic lotion was selected for further research. In order to improve
consumer properties, it is proposed to introduce fragrances - essential oil of cloves into the composition of the lotion.
The choice of this oil is made on the basis of studies confirming its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant
properties. A technology for obtaining a therapeutic and cosmetic product based on the proposed composition is
proposed.
KEYWORDS
Medical cosmetics, lotion, dry extract, technology, composition, preservatives.
Research Article
SELECTION OF THE COMPOSITION AND DEVELOPMENT OF
TECHNOLOGY OF MEDICAL-COSMETIC LOTION BASED ON PLANT
EXTRACT
Submission Date:
December 11, 2022,
Accepted Date:
December 16, 2022,
Published Date:
December 21, 2022
Crossref doi:
https://doi.org/10.37547/ajbspi/Volume02Issue12-01
Malika B. Baratova
Tashkent Pharmaceutical Institute Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Yokut S. Karieva
Tashkent Pharmaceutical Institute Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Journal
Website:
https://theusajournals.
com/index.php/ajbspi
Copyright:
Original
content from this work
may be used under the
terms of the creative
commons
attributes
4.0 licence.
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
2
American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation
(ISSN
–
2771-2753)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
01-07
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.896
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
INTRODUCTION
One of the fundamental modern directions in the
technology of production of medical and cosmetic
products is the introduction of biologically active
substances or their complexes into their composition,
which have various therapeutic properties: anti-
inflammatory,
antioxidant,
wound
healing,
regenerating, photoprotective, etc. These complexes
in most cases are represented by water, alcohol-water
extracts from medicinal plant materials in the form of
extracts in various aggregate states, juices, infusions
and decoctions [1-4].
According to the results of comprehensive studies,
complexes of biologically active substances of plant
origin are practically non-toxic, and their physiological
activity is close to that of natural substances of internal
metabolism [5].
Considering the foregoing, the purpose of this
research was to select the composition and develop a
technology for a medical and cosmetic lotion based on
a plant polyextract.
Materials and methods
As a substance in the selection of the
composition and development of the technology of
the lotion, the dry polyextract “Phytoinflam” was
chosen, obtained by the staff of the Department of
Technology of Dosage Forms of the Tashkent
Pharmaceutical Institute from the bark of the common
oak (Quercus robur L.) flowers of chamomile
(Chamomilla recutita L.) and grass of a series of
tripartite (Bidens tripartita L.). The results of preclinical
studies confirmed the pronounced anti-inflammatory
and wound healing activity of the selected polyextract.
The extract was obtained by circulation extraction with
the successive use of two extractants: purified water
and ethyl alcohol. Purification of the obtained extract
from ballast substances was carried out by adding
activated carbon, followed by filtration [6,7].
As is known, in addition to the main complex of
biologically active substances, when selecting the
composition of a cosmeceutical agent, it is necessary
to introduce auxiliary substances, such as acidity
regulators, preservatives, flavoring agents, etc. For this
purpose, we used the following excipients: glycerin,
urea, salicylic acid, boric acid, sodium tetraborate, citric
acid, aluminum alum, essential oils of clove, lavender
and rose, ethyl alcohol of various concentrations, etc.
Taking into account the literature data, as well as the
proposal of pharmacologists, the plant polyextract
“Phytoinflam” was included in the composition of the
lotion at a concentration of 10%.
The lotion test samples were analyzed according to [8]:
the appearance and color were determined visually,
the smell was determined from the surface of the
medical and cosmetic product, the volume fraction of
ethanol was determined by gas chromatography, and
the pH value of the samples was determined
potentiometrically.
Results and discussion
At the initial stage of research, the compatibility of the
components of the lotion was tested. It was found that
aluminum alum caused the precipitation of tannins
present in the composition of the dry polyextract: as a
result, this substance was not used in the selection of
the composition of the medical and cosmetic lotion.
The remaining excipients were compatible with the
active substance and with each other.
We have prepared lotions with more than 10
compositions, differing in compositions of excipients.
Table 1 shows the compositions of 7 prototypes, which
in appearance met the requirements of regulatory
documentation [8].
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
3
American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation
(ISSN
–
2771-2753)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
01-07
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.896
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
Table 1
Compositions of prototypes of cosmeceutical lotion based on dry polyextract “Phytoinflam”
Name of ingredients
KL-1
KL -2
KL -3
KL -4
KL -5
KL -6
KL -7
Dry polyextract
“Phytoinflam”
10,0
10,0
10,0
10,0
10,0
10,0
10,0
Glycerol
5,0
5,0
6,0
6,0
8,0
Urea
2,0
1,5
Salicylic acid
0,5
1,0
Lemon acid
0,1
0,1
Benzoic acid
0,3
0,5
0,3
Boric acid
0,5
0,2
0,2
Sodium tetraborate
1,0
0,5
Ethyl alcohol 96%
20,0
40,0
35,0
25,0
30,0
30,0
25,0
Purified water
before
100,0
before
100,0
before
100,0
before
100,0
before
100,0
before
100,0
before
100,0
Lotions obtained according to the sample data were
analyzed according to GOST 31679-
2012 “Liquid
cosmetic products. General technical conditions”
according to the following indicators: appearance,
color, smell, volume fraction of ethyl alcohol, pH value.
The data obtained are shown in table 2.
All analyzed samples of the lotion were homogeneous
single-phase liquids without foreign impurities, from
light brown to brown with a reddish tint. Despite the
fact that the urea substance itself is odorless, the lotion
samples according to the compositions KL-3 and KL-4,
containing this moisturizer in their composition, had a
slight smell of ammonia. This fact served as the basis
for excluding these compounds from further studies.
Lotions for the rest of the compositions had a woody
smell, characteristic of the smell of the plant
polyextract “Phytoinflam”.
Table 2
The results of the analysis of prototypes of medical and cosmetic lotion
Lotion
sample
s
Определяемые показатели
appearance
Colour
smell
volume.
share of
ethanol, %
рН
KL-1
homogeneous single-
phase liquid without
foreign impurities
brown with a reddish tint
characteristic of the color
of the plant polyextract,
which is part of the lotion
woody smell
characteristic of the
smell of vegetable
polyextract
25,16
4,52
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
4
American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation
(ISSN
–
2771-2753)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
01-07
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.896
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
KL-2
homogeneous single-
phase liquid without
foreign impurities
Brown with a brownish
tint, characteristic of the
color of the vegetable
polyextract, which is part
of the lotion
woody smell
characteristic of the
smell of vegetable
polyextract
52,90
4,10
KL -3
homogeneous single-
phase liquid without
foreign impurities
light brown color,
characteristic of the color
of the vegetable
polyextract, which is part
of the lotion
woody smell
characteristic of the
smell of vegetable
polyextract and a slight
smell of ammonia
46,34
6,91
KL -4
homogeneous single-
phase liquid without
foreign impurities
brown color characteristic
of the color of the
vegetable polyextract,
which is part of the lotion
woody smell
characteristic of the
smell of vegetable
polyextract
33,61
3,88
KL -5
homogeneous single-
phase liquid without
foreign impurities
brown with a reddish tint,
characteristic of the color
of the plant polyextract,
which is part of the lotion
woody smell
characteristic of the
smell of vegetable
polyextract
41,28
5,03
KL -6
homogeneous single-
phase liquid without
foreign impurities
light brown color,
characteristic of the color
of the vegetable
polyextract, which is part
of the lotion
woody smell
characteristic of the
smell of vegetable
polyextract and a slight
smell of ammonia
40,09
7,11
KL -7
homogeneous single-
phase liquid without
foreign impurities
brown color with a reddish
tint, characteristic of the
color of the vegetable
polyextract, which is part
of the lotion
woody smell
characteristic of the
smell of vegetable
polyextract
32,40
6,82
One of the main indicators of the quality of medical and
cosmetic products is the volume fraction of ethyl
alcohol. Despite the fact that for all prototypes this
indicator was within the regulated limits, it was
decided to exclude the compositions KL-1 and KL-2.
Since it is highly likely that a low proportion of ethanol
will cause an insufficient therapeutic effect
(composition KL-1; 25.16%), and an increased content
will cause excessive drying of the skin, as a result, its
peeling and loss of elasticity (composition KL-2; 52,
90%).
Since the developed medical and cosmetic product is
intended for the treatment of acne, and this disease is
more often manifested in oily skin types, it is necessary
that the pH of the lotion be slightly acidic. This explains
the choice of organic acids as preservatives. According
to [8], the pH value for lotions is regulated in the range
of 1.2-8.5. All analyzed prototypes of medical and
cosmetic products meet the requirements for this
indicator. However, the lotion being developed is
intended for the treatment of acne and will be used for
oily skin, therefore, for the manifestation of the
maximum therapeutic effect, its pH should be slightly
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
5
American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation
(ISSN
–
2771-2753)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
01-07
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.896
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
acidic. Those. compositions KL-3, KL-6 and KL-7, having
a practically neutral and slightly alkaline reaction, are
not suitable for this type of lotion. According to the
composition of KL-4, the prototype had an acidic pH
value: as a result, it was also excluded from further
studies.
Based on the results of the analysis, we decided to
select the composition of KL-5 for further research. In
addition to the main BAS complex in the form of the
Phytoinflam polyextract, this composition includes
ethyl alcohol, glycerin, salicylic acid and sodium
tetraborate.
Ethyl alcohol is a necessary component in the
composition of lotions, since it has an astringent,
antiseptic effect. Also, due to its presence, moderate
degreasing of the skin occurs, which is necessary in the
treatment of acne [2].
Glycerin, having increased hygroscopicity, acts as a
moisturizer and emollient. It prevents the loss of
moisture and excessive drying of the skin as a result of
the use of medical and cosmetic products, and also
promotes its regeneration [2].
Sodium tetraborate has a moderate preservative and
rather pronounced antiseptic property. In addition,
researchers note its ability to cleanse the skin, and
thanks to these properties, this component is widely
used in medical and cosmetic products for the
treatment of acne.
In the composition we offer, salicylic acid at a
concentration of 1.0% is used as the main preservative.
This content was used on the basis of a study of
literature data, which shows the allowable rate from
0.5 to 1%. It was decided to consider the possibility of
reducing the concentration of the preservative. For
this purpose, lotions were prepared according to the
composition of KL-5 with salicylic acid content of 0.5%,
0.7% and 1%.
However, an analysis of the microbiological purity of
the prepared lotion showed that when the content of
salicylic acid at a concentration of 0.5% - after 1 month,
and at a content of 0.7% - after 2 months, an excess of
the content of microorganisms relative to the norms
given in the regulatory documentation was observed.
Thus, it was found that 1% salicylic acid content is
optimal for this lotion.
In order to improve the consumer properties of the
developed medical and cosmetic lotion, clove essential
oil was added in the amount of 2 drops per 100 g of
finished product. As is known today, various oils can be
used as fragrances: rose, jasmine, chamomile,
geranium, lavender, mimosa, frankincense, fir, lemon,
mint, rosemary, etc. The choice of this particular oil is
explained by the fact that 2000 years ago in China,
clove oil was used for toothaches as an analgesic and
anti-inflammatory agent. It also has antimicrobial and
strong antibacterial properties. According to studies,
this oil controls the development of many bacteria,
incl. Staphyloccocus aureus (Staphylococcus aureus),
which provokes the appearance and development of
acne. The antioxidant properties of cloves should also
be noted: 290,283 units on the ORAC scale, which is 30
times more than that of blueberries [9,10].
The technological scheme for the preparation of a
medical and cosmetic lotion based on the dry
polyextract “Phytoinflam” is shown in fig. 1.
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
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American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation
(ISSN
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2771-2753)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
01-07
SJIF
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(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.896
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
TR
1.
Raw material
preparation
Auxiliary work
Production personnel
training
VR
1.3.
VR
1.2
.
VR
1.1.
VR
1.4.
TP
1.1
.
Preparation of
production facilities
Hydrogen peroxide,
“Extra-dez”
disinfectant,
chloramine
Preparation of technological
equipment
VR
1.
Losses
Preparation of closures
Sifting ingredients
glass bottles, cardboard
cases, corrugated boxes,
labels
SE “Phytoinflam”,
salicylic acid, sodium
tetraborate
SE “Phytoinflam”,
salicylic acid, sodium
tetraborate, glycerin,
purified water, ethyl
alcohol
SE “Phytoinflam”,
purified water
Salicylic acid, ethyl
alcohol
TP
1.2
.
Т
P
2.1.
Т
P2
.2.
Weighing Ingredients
Dissolution of SE
“
Phytoinflam
”
and
sodium tetraborate in
purified water
Dissolution of salicylic acid
in ethyl alcohol
Aqueous solution,
alcohol solution,
glycerin, clove oil
Т
P
2.3.
Mixing introductory and
alcohol solutions, adding
glycerin and clove oil
Т
P
2.4
.
Stir until smooth
TR
2.
Lotion preparation
Finished raw material
Losses
Losses
Gel mass
Packing, packaging and
labeling lotion
геля
UM
1.1.
Packing,
package
Empty glass bottles
UM
1.
Losses
To the finished goods warehouse
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
7
American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation
(ISSN
–
2771-2753)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
01-07
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
705
)
(2022:
5.
705
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
METADATA
IF
–
5.896
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
Fig.1. Technological scheme for the preparation of medical and cosmetic lotion
CONCLUSION
1.
The composition was selected and the technology
for obtaining a medical and cosmetic lotion based
on the dry polyextract “Phytoinflam” was
developed. The content of the preservative -
salicylic acid and the introduction of clove oil as a
fragrance have been scientifically substantiated.
2.
The resulting lotion in terms of quality met the
requirements of GOST 31679-
2012 “Liquid cosmetic
products. General technical conditions”.
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Samusenko A. L. Study of the concentration
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