Volume 03 Issue 09-2023
80
American Journal Of Social Sciences And Humanity Research
(ISSN
–
2771-2141)
VOLUME
03
ISSUE
09
P
AGES
:
80-84
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
993
)
(2022:
6.
015
)
(2023:
7.
164
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
ABSTRACT
The article is devoted to the women’s jewelry, their forms and details. The author of the article is analyzing som
e
elements of the local traditional elements of the jewelry, their social attitude and worldview on the ethnic history of
the nation that reflected in the decorations.
KEYWORDS
W
omen’s jewelry, bozuband
- type of the jewelry, golden amulet, arabak
–
earring for nose, headdress jewelry, spring
–
type of the jewelry.
INTRODUCTION
After our country gained its independence, attention
to our historical values increased, especially in order to
understand our identity, the need to know and deeply
understand our past culture and art, the spiritual
heritage that is the product of the thinking of our
forefathers, and the evolution of religious and worldly
thinking is increasing. Currently, the number of tourists
visiting our country is increasing day by day due to the
efforts of our country's president. Not only our
beautiful architectural monuments, but also our rich
past, national traditions, and religion are of great
interest to our visiting guests.
Some elements of traditions, social relations,
educational, religious and aesthetic forms are
Research Article
ANALYSIS OF JEWELRY IN WOMEN'S CLOTHES OF BUKHARA OASIS
Submission Date:
September 20, 2023,
Accepted Date:
September 25, 2023,
Published Date:
September 30, 2023
Crossref doi:
https://doi.org/10.37547/ajsshr/Volume03Issue09-13
M.I. Niyazova
Candidate Of Historical Sciences, Associate Professor Bukhara State University, Uzbekistan
N. Sh. Sultanova
Independent Researcher Bukhara State University, Uzbekistan
Journal
Website:
https://theusajournals.
com/index.php/ajsshr
Copyright:
Original
content from this work
may be used under the
terms of the creative
commons
attributes
4.0 licence.
Volume 03 Issue 09-2023
81
American Journal Of Social Sciences And Humanity Research
(ISSN
–
2771-2141)
VOLUME
03
ISSUE
09
P
AGES
:
80-84
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
993
)
(2022:
6.
015
)
(2023:
7.
164
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
expressed in the clothes. Along with some changes
taking place in the economy and politics of society, the
forms of clothing and their decorations are also
changing. It shows the material condition of the
people, people's taste, ideals of beauty, specific
aspects of household management, and some aspects
of family life. In addition, they show the place and time
where a person lived, happy or sad events in his life. In
particular, the influence of traditional national cultural
customs is observed, its main forms and elements have
been created and formed over the centuries.
While there are commonalities in the dress culture of
each nation, there are local characteristics that indicate
that there are also specific differences in it. This is often
due to the influence of cultural contacts, past ancestral
traditions, or ethnic manifestations [1].
THE MAIN FINDINGS AND RESULTS
The women’s national costumes of the Bukhara oasis
and the jewelry adorning them have been formed and
developed over the centuries, just like the national
Uzbek costumes. The process of its formation was
directly influenced by the people’s lifestyle and social
conditions, as well as their interactions with other
peoples.
The elegance of women’s clothes, their variety and
beauty, the ornaments made by skilled Uzbek jewelers
added even more beauty. Jewelry is an integral part of
the traditional, national clothing of the Bukhara oasis,
which has been studied in ethnology[2]. Ornaments in
historical costumes not only denoted the social origin,
i.e., the class of the owner, but also expressed the
aesthetic taste of the people along with the
metaphorical meaning. Over time, they improved, their
types increased, and their forms became more
complex. In particular, their types that can be taken off
and attached to the div (bracelets, rings, earrings)
have appeared.
Ornaments and ornaments typical of traditional
clothes have been preserved until recent times. In the
past, most women’s head and upper clothes were
decorated with jewelry. The renewal of clothes caused
the loss of jewelry. Until the end of the 19th century,
jewelers produced a wide variety of jewelry for
women, and each region had its own style.
For example, in the Fergana Valley, ornaments are the
most common. Each of them has a special name in
several forms: from those worn on the neck and chest,
paykoncha, arpa jevak, zeb gardon, nozigardon, tanga
jevak, amulet, bozband, gold amulet, neck amulet,
chest amulet, zarkokil that is worn on both sides of the
hair and falls on two shoulders. In the villages of
Surkhandarya, ornaments made of colorful small beads
worn on the chest are widespread. In many places, it
was customary to wear a bunch of coral strung on a
string, in Tashkent, a bead made of dur, a necklace
made of coral and glass, a ring and a bracelet. Those
who hung all kinds of trinkets on the collar of their
Volume 03 Issue 09-2023
82
American Journal Of Social Sciences And Humanity Research
(ISSN
–
2771-2141)
VOLUME
03
ISSUE
09
P
AGES
:
80-84
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
993
)
(2022:
6.
015
)
(2023:
7.
164
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
shirts wore black beads so as not to catch the eyes of
young children. In Bukhara, the golden irsika shibirmak
is decorated with a large ruby-eyed pearl or dur in the
shape of a leaf. All ornaments were made of gold, silver
and precious stones in the rich classes, and copper, zinc
or gilded metals in the poor classes. Especially,
tillakosh,
osmondozi,
tillabaragak
and
other
ornaments were very valuable.
Bukhara traditional jewelry, like Tashkent and
Samarkand jewelry, was distinguished by the
abundance and elegance of shakilas. Gold, silver, coral,
turquoise, mother-of-pearl and other rare and precious
stones were used to make jewelry. The items made by
Samarkand jewelers have a distinctive style of Bukhara
jewelry school.
Bukhara has long been one of the major centers of
jewelry art. Brides wore all kinds of jewelry such as
“Tilla
-
bargak”,
“tillaqosh”,
“gajak”,
“tavq”,
“necklace”, “zebigordan”, “nozigardon”, “earring”,
“bracelet". I
n addition, he performed the task of
protecting women from various calamities, the evil
eye, and evil eye. One of such ornaments is a tilakosh,
which is worn on the bride's forehead, and it is made
on the basis of shaping the metal like an eyebrow. Its
lower part consists of leaf-shaped stones, and the
upper part is decorated with elegant patterns and
studded with stones. Tillakosh was made not only in
Bukhara, but also in Samarkand, Tashkent, Kokand.
The top part of Tillakosh, which is not decorated, is
ca
lled “bolo
-
abru” [3].
. According to D. Fakhriddinova, sometimes the upper
part of tillakoshes consists of complex multi-figure
compositions, in which the image of anthropomorphic,
zoomorphic and plant-like patterns is represented.
Over time, the original symbolic meaning of the forms
changed and began to be considered only as a
beautiful pattern. Another piece of jewelry is a gold
leaf, which is also worn on the forehead. The gold leaf
consists of square coins connected to each other, and
at the top is a series of flower-shaped coins decorated
with coral and turquoise stones. The lower part is filled
with small leaf-shaped pebbles. Bukhara gold leaves
are very similar in structure to the "manglay salt"
jewelry of Khorezm women. It's not for nothing that
many pieces of jewelry are decorated with leaf-like
decorations. Since ancient times, people understood
the leaf as a symbol of the awakening of life and
nature. Tillaqosh, mohi gold (bibishak) worn on the
temple and gajak, zebigardon and nozigardon, earrings
such as leaves, kundalsoz, rings, rings, bracelets with a
lattice pattern in the Islamic (shabak) method and
other ornaments were included in the collection of
women's clothing. A crescent shaped mohi gold worn
on the temples and forehead is an ancient women's
turban. These ornaments indicate that mohi gold
reflects archaic symbols related to fertility rituals.
Volume 03 Issue 09-2023
83
American Journal Of Social Sciences And Humanity Research
(ISSN
–
2771-2141)
VOLUME
03
ISSUE
09
P
AGES
:
80-84
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
993
)
(2022:
6.
015
)
(2023:
7.
164
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
The goldsmiths of Bukhara used a different glazing
method from Samarkand to decorate women's chest
jewelry called zebigardon and nozigardon, and placed
Islamic motifs in a dark (mostly blue) background. This
made the jewelry even more attractive.
Jewelry, like clothes, has been formed for many
centuries, and their history shows the characteristics of
national culture, the economic relations of one nation
with another, the influence of the political system on
national culture. Women's jewelry also changed
depending on the demand of the time, social
environment, and natural conditions, and its range was
enriched with new pieces and forms year by year. At
the same time, the jewelry has preserved its most
ancient traditional form and has been passed down
from generation to generation as a legacy.
Hair, ear, neck, chest and hand ornaments are the
complete part of women's jewelry. Wealthy wives and
young brides also wear nose jewelry - "arobak" - worn
on holidays and weddings. This jewel is also known as
"latipa" among the Uzbek-Turkmen living in the oasis,
and "buloqi" in some villages of the Nurota oasis[4].
In the central villages of the Zarafshan Valley, the nose
jewelry is called "natabini" [5] We can see that this
jewel is mentioned in the work of B. Kh.
Karmysheva[6]. N. Azizova said that the "carriage",
which is considered a nose jewelry, was made by
Bukhara jewelers[7].
There is no wedding or celebration in the Uzbek
people, where everyday jewelry suitable for different
seasons and ceremonies is not worn. Brides and
grooms, a circumcised wedding boy, and even a baby
in a crib are also worn with certain jewelry.
Young women, mothers and grandmothers wear
jewelry worthy of their youth. Wearing jewelry is one
of the lifelong traditions that are part of the culture of
every nation. Like the habit of dressing, the habit of
wearing jewelry has also been developed and
diversified until it has been perfected and reached our
days.
CONCLUSION
Today, the modern clothes of Bukhara women show
the updated and modified form of our traditional
dresses mentioned above. In particular, the style of
clothing has been renewed and the forms of using
ancient traditions in headgear and ornaments are
visible. As our national values are being restored day by
day, interest and demand for traditional, national
clothes and jewelry is increasing. Accordingly, the
scientific and practical relevance of researching the
evolution and transformation of traditional, national
clothes and jewelry of the Bukhara oasis is increasing.
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Анъанавий
ўзбек
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Volume 03 Issue 09-2023
84
American Journal Of Social Sciences And Humanity Research
(ISSN
–
2771-2141)
VOLUME
03
ISSUE
09
P
AGES
:
80-84
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.
993
)
(2022:
6.
015
)
(2023:
7.
164
)
OCLC
–
1121105677
Publisher:
Oscar Publishing Services
Servi
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