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A
BSTRACT
The light industry, and especially the textile industry, is increasingly attracting the attention of foreign
investors. And this is no coincidence, because today a third of all workers employed in the industrial sector
are concentrated in it.
Along with an increase in the share of processed cotton fiber, the leadership of the republic set before the
workers of the textile industry a responsible task to improve the quality of products, increase export
potential. This decision required the reconstruction and modernization of existing enterprises and the
construction of new ones. One of the primary tasks in the field of light industry is the production of goods
for the population, which leads to a fundamental improvement in both the quality and range of products,
increasing their technical level and aesthetic expressiveness. It is planned to achieve high rates of
development in the production of knitted goods. Knitting industry, taking into account the mastery of a
number of product advantages, as well as efficient production technology,
K
EYWORDS
Knitting industry, production of knitwear, double knitting machines, technologies for the production of
knitted fabrics.
Journal
Website:
http://sciencebring.co
m/index.php/ijasr
Copyright:
Original
content from this work
may be used under the
terms of the creative
commons
attributes
4.0 licence.
Research Article
TECHNOLOGICAL FEATURES OF THE WORK OF A DOUBLE-
KNITTING MACHINE
Submission Date:
June 05, 2022,
Accepted Date:
June 15, 2022,
Published Date:
June 27, 2022
Crossref doi:
https://doi.org/10.37547/ijasr-02-06-04
Mirboboeva Gulhayo Abdusattorovna
Lecturer, Department of Light Industry Technologies and Equipment, Fergana Polytechnic Institute,
Fergana, Uzbekistan
Nabidjanova Nargiza Nasimjanovna
Professor, Namangan Institute of Engineering and Technology, Namangan, Uzbekistan
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I
NTRODUCTION
Increasing the output of modern knitwear,
improving their quality and intensifying
production require improving the raw material
base, the rational and economical use of natural
yarn, and the widespread use of chemical threads,
since the cost of raw materials is 80-90% of the
cost of the finished product. Therefore,
nationwide and sectoral scientific and technical
programs provide for work on the creation and
implementation of knitted fabrics and products
made from them with reduced material
consumption through the use of various
lightweight
structures,
chemical
threads,
progressive technological processes and new
modern equipment.
Knitwear has characteristics that allow it to be
used for the production of products for various
purposes - household and technical. When
changing the filling primary data during the
production of knitwear, it becomes possible to
regulate its various properties, for example,
extensibility. The use of knitted materials and
products tends to expand, while all new needs
and requirements become stimulating to develop
a qualitatively new range of materials and
products based on fabrics with different
characteristics. All of the above can be achieved
through a combination of new types, both raw
materials and weaves. In this case, both low-
stretch fabrics are obtained, which are close to
fabrics in their characteristics, and fabrics, the
extensibility of which is 100% or more.
L
ITERATURE REVIVE
The issues of creating and providing knitwear
with a patterned structure are set out in scientific
studies by such scientists as V. Kumar, VR
Sampath, Y. Kavusturan, E. Onofrei, SAFrydrych,
HR Mattila, D. Farama, Bartkowiak Grazyna,
Szucht Edwart, C. Candan, A. Mukhopadhyay and
others.
In this area of science, fundamental works are
known to obtain new structures of fabrics, expand
the range of knitwear and study the technological
parameters and physical and mechanical
properties of knitwear prof. A.S. Dalidovich, Z.I.
Shlyakhova, L.V. Shengelia, I.I. Shalova, L.A.
Kudryavina, N.A. Kuzovkova Yu.S. Grechukhina,
L.V. Shkunova, V.M. Lazarenko, V.A. Zinovieva, L.P.
Rovinskaya, I.G. Tsitovich, B.B. Stroganova, E.I.
Bitusa, V.A. Zavarueva, A.V. Truevtseva, M.M.
Mukimova, N.R. Khankhadzhaeva, K.M. Kholikova,
B.F. Mirusmanova, K.Z. Yunusova and others.
The issues of creating knitted products with
hygienic properties, studying the deformation
properties of knitted fabrics and products are
considered in the research works of such
scientists as prof. HA. Alimova, F.U. Nigmatova,
S.Sh. Tashpulatov, V.S. Rybina, D.U. Aripzhanova.
V.A. Kublyakov.
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M
ATERIALS AND METHODS
At this point in time, many fabrics are suitable for
the manufacture and creation of knitted materials
and products, incl. sports goods are made by
means of elastic weaves, where mainly cross-
knitting machines are used [2]. The creation of
new warp-knitted elastic fabrics, as well as the
study of their characteristics, are relevant tasks,
because. allow enterprises that operate with the
use of warp knitting equipment, can lead to an
increase in the level of competitiveness of
manufactured products. In the case when the
question arises regarding the determination of
the actual values of the main parameters of the
loop structure formation of warp-knitted elastic
knitwear, which turned out to be close to the
theoretical ones, the difference between the
actual and theoretical values ranges from 0-13%.
That's why,
No less interesting are the works that consider
methods for obtaining integrally molded parts of
garments using polymer coatings, methods for
assessing the dimensional stability of bulk parts
of garments [3]. It is also noted that the
manufacture of knitted knitwear is one of the
main directions for improving the processes of
manufacturing products.
The paper proposes a method for knitting a two-
layer jersey of a new structure, taking into
account the physiological heat-shielding comfort
with a reduced consumption of raw materials [4].
Physiological comfort is determined during the
physical activity of the div, and heat-shielding
comfort is determined by the feeling of warmth
(cold and moisture) during the evaporation or
absorption of sweat released from the human
div.
In [5], a two-layer knitwear with a reduced
consumption of raw materials for outdoor
activities is proposed, in which one layer is made
from a natural type of fibre, and the second layer
is made from synthetic threads.
The manufacturing sector plays an important role
in the development of the state economy. This fact
is given special attention by Japanese scientists-
statisticians [6-8]. With the acquisition of
independence in Tajikistan, much attention has
also been paid to the manufacturing sector.
Among them, the textile industry has a special
place. The development of the knitwear industry,
an increase in the growth in the productivity of
knitted fabrics and products is clearly expressed
in the development of the economy of Uzbekistan.
For the design of any canvas, one must bear in
mind, first of all, the possibility of manufacturing
a different assortment of products on equipment
of a certain type using patterned weaves with
multi-coloured, as well as textured effects. When
designing products, one should take into account
the effect of the structure-forming elements of
knitwear on the magnitude of the visual
perception of the pattern. Therefore, the issues of
pattern formation are issues of paramount
importance [9].
The use of the needle selection method directly
reveals the characteristics and repeat capabilities
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of the pattern formed on the canvas. In the case of
considering the process of knitting patterned
weaves, it becomes possible to select needles or
other working bodies exclusively on flat knitting
machines. The process under study can be carried
out in a predetermined order for various
purposes, for example, for complete loop
formation, obtaining press sketches, reliably
ensuring the non-working position of the needles,
or for the purpose of transferring loops. This
process takes place using the appropriate designs
of selection mechanisms used on flat knitting
machines.
In the case of using flat knitting machines, it is
possible to transfer the loops from the side of the
needles of the front needle bar to the side of the
needles of the back needle bar and vice versa. In
the same way, you can transfer the loops on
adjacent needles using the needle bar of the same
name. The first type of transfer is used in the case
of obtaining a variety of patterned weaves, the
second type is used to knit knitwear using
openwork patterns, as well as to reduce the
number of loops along the width of the material
or product, where the narrowing process should
take place. In the latter case, from one or more
extreme needles, the loops are transferred to
neighbouring ones.
Taking into account the increased interest in
expanding the technological capabilities of flat
knitting machines and obtaining various types of
patterned knitwear, which have a number of
valuable characteristics, the structure and
structure of several derivatives of the eraser are
designed - three-reinforced, four-elastic and five-
reinforced weaves of knitwear, and also a
technological regulation for the production of
these weaves, which are performed only on flat
knitting machines [10].
The process of knitting a double-sided weave
(Figure 1.1) occurs as follows: when the carriage
moves from right to left, if only needles with long
heels work on the front needle bar (3, 7), then
only needles with short heels work on the back
needle bar (4, 8) .
Figure 1. Graphical recording and production process of double-knit.
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Typically, the enclosing wedges can occupy three
positions: “working”, “pressing” and “semi-
pressing”. In all the given positions, the needles
that fall under the action of the enclosing wedges
function with the formation of smooth or press
loops. In this regard, the names of the provisions
under consideration are considered conditional.
In machines and mechanisms of individual
structures, the enclosing wedges, in addition to
the indicated positions, can also occupy a “non-
working” position. In the next row, only needles
with a short heel (1, 5) work on the front needle
bar, and only needles with a long heel (2, 6) work
on the back needle bar. To do this, the same
process is repeated, only in reverse, i.e. on the
front needle bar, the lifting wedge will be
completely turned off and the additionally
installed wedge 9 for lifting the pushers will be
turned on, and on the rear needle bar, the lifting
wedge will be turned on halfway, and the
additional installed wedge 9' will be turned off.
Thus, the process of knitting a two-sided weave
takes place on a flat knitting machine. One weave
repeat consists of two rows. Similarly, the
derivatives of the weave from the eraser are
knitted - three-stranded, four-stranded and five-
stranded weaves of tricotage according to
rapport.
Interlock weave is also knitted on double-loop
circular knitting machines Interlock, which have
wide technological capabilities. Using these
possibilities, it is possible to develop and
recommend various structures of knitwear based
on interlock weaves on double-loop circular
knitting machines Interlock without losing the
basic physical and mechanical properties.
The studies show multilayer and quasi-multilayer
weaves of knitwear for the purpose of producing
clothes
that
have
high
heat-shielding
characteristics, which will lead to an expansion of
the effects of patterned purpose on knitted fabrics
and traditional products due to the manifestation
of volumetric relief patterns [11]. Such types of
weaves are often used in technical knitwear,
which is one of the most relevant and interesting
trends today.
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Figure 2. Knitting mechanism of flat knitting machines.
The work [12] considers the principle of
operation of the knitting mechanism of flat
knitting machines, which is aimed at improving
the qualitative characteristics of the produced
fabric. And the movement limiters 1 of the thread
guides 2 were installed to fix them at a distance of
up to two needle steps from the extreme needles
in the working area, where the knitting process
takes place and the knitting system 3 together
with the carriage 4 along the needle bar is moved,
the thread guide rails were made with grooves for
the most threads, the thread feed mechanisms are
installed directly in front of the thread guides,
where the brace mechanism was made in the
form of plates 5 (Fig. 2).
The proposed knitting mechanism improves the
quality of the produced weave and expands
technological capabilities. In order to increase the
productivity, as well as, if necessary, the
reliability of flat knitting machines, providing for
the reverse movement of the carriage, an
exclusively new knitting system of the carriage is
proposed in [13]. Figure 3 is a schematic
representation of the carriage knitting system.
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Figure 3. Carriage knitting system.
It is known that additionally installed wedges
have a direct effect on the heels of the needles,
then the signal sent to change the direction of the
carriage is likely to be sharply formed when the
latter passes the last knitting section of the
material or product, as well as their details. Since
in this case, the run-outs of the carriage will take
on a minimum value, which will lead to an
increase in the indicator - the productivity of the
machine.
Currently, scientific and scientific-practical
research is being carried out, which are related to
the study, modernization and expanded use of the
technological aspects of flat knitting machines,
which are included in the technological
regulations of modern operational activities. The
use of computer technology in machines and
equipment facilitates the task of individual
selection of needles when forming a pattern on
materials and products using different colors, as
well as determining the size and repeat of the
pattern being formed. This leads to the
achievement of varying degrees of saturation, as
well as the lightness of the color gamuts of the
pattern being formed, visually creating a certain
emotional expressiveness perceived by the
designer.
As for flat-knitting (fang) semi-automatic and
automatic machines, they are widely used for
knitting both basic (backs, shelves, etc.) and
finishing (collars, pockets, inlays, etc.) structure-
forming parts of upper-purpose products .
Both automatic and semi-automatic machines are
very useful for developing detailed parts -
shelves, backs, sleeves, etc. upper products by
semi-regular methods based on woolen, semi-
woolen, cotton, mixed and other types of yarn.
Prof. Mukimov M.M. and Abdullaev R.N. a method
has been developed and proposed for the
production of plush knitwear by means of a flat-
fang machine. The peculiarity of the method lies
in the fact that for this small and noticeable
changes were made to the design of the flat-fan
machine [18]. The main thread guide NP was used
to lay a plush thread (Figure 4), and an
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“additional” thread guide NG was installed to lay
a ground thread.
The thread guide NG is moved towards the guide
rail and then the thread is laid exclusively on the
needles of only one needle bed, the plush thread
guide NP can lay the thread on the needles of both
needle beds.
The locks of the front needle bar Ip were
equipped with drop wedges 3 (Figure 5) in order
to drop the plush broaches, and the locks of the
rear needle bar Ip were left without any change.
In order for the discarded plush broaches to get
into the spatial zone located between the needle
beds, a guide H was installed.
The knitting process of the plush jersey is carried
out on the machine as follows. At the beginning of
the initial position, the loops are located
exclusively on the needles of the rear needle bar.
And in the case of moving the carriage from right
to left, the needles of both needle beds are raised
at the stage of closing the lifting wedges 1 and
lowered by the wedges 2. In the process of
lowering, the needles, as well as the front and rear
needle beds, will capture the plush thread.
Figure 4. Filament feeding scheme.
Figure 5. Needle locks of a flat-fan machine
Subsequently, a ground thread is laid on the
needles of the back needle bed using the Ng
thread guide. For this purpose, the thread guide is
installed with the backs of the needles of the front
needle bar. In this case, one loop row can be
obtained on the needles of the back needle bar. As
for the needles of the front needle bed, you can get
open loops on them.
Subsequently, with further movement of the
carriage, the needles of the front needle bed move
along the wedges, dropping their open loops
(plush broaches), which the guide H (Fig. 6) will
lower between the needle beds. Dropping wedges
are in a movable state and in connection with this,
locks with similar wedges can be used to develop
a ribbed weave.
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By moving the carriage from left to right, the
second row is knitted. At the beginning of the
knitting process with brushes, the valves of the
needle bar of the front part will open. The length
of the plush broaches is adjusted by changing the
depth of the needle of the front part of the upper
leg, incl. and the distance between the needle
beds.
The study of the proposed method for the
production of plush weaves in laboratory
conditions showed the possibility of obtaining
plush knitwear on a flat-fang machine without
significant changes in the design of the loop-
forming system. Knitting plush knitwear on a flat-
flange machine, compared with the manufacture
of such products from linen, reduces waste by 10-
15%.
Another way of knitting plush knitwear on a flat-
fang machine is also possible, in which the
needles of one needle bed are replaced by pins.
Figure 6. - The process of knitting knitwear with a plush weave.
To do this, reed needles 4 should be placed in the
water needle bed (Figure 6, a), and pins 1 instead
of needles in the other. Two thread guides feed
their threads, being at some distance from each
other. The main threader lays the plush thread on
the needles and on the pins, and the additional
threader lays the ground thread, only on the
needles.
From the beginning, reed needles 4 are put
forward and the thread guide 3 moving in front
lays a ground thread on them. Then the pins 1 are
extended and the thread guide 2, moving behind,
will lay the pile thread, both on the needles and
on the pins. With the receipt of the thread, the
reed needles 4 are lowered, and further the
process of culling the threads laid on them takes
place, and the pile thread will be culled on the
pins 1, and also its loops 5 (Figure 6, b) are longer
than the loops 6 based on the ground thread,
which are culled on the breaking teeth 7. Pins,
after receiving a plush thread, stand upright until
loops are formed using reed needles.
Subsequently, the pins will be lowered and throw
off the loose plush loops (increased loop pulls).
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When the carriage reverses, the pins and needles
rise together to the conclusion and the knitting
row. Simultaneous formation of plush loops by
dropping plush broaches to the water loop-
forming system significantly increases the
productivity of the machine, but at the same time
increases the length of the loop-forming system of
the needle bed with pins.
The developed and proposed technology for the
production of piece knitwear with plush weave
makes it possible to expand the range, improve
product quality and, from an economic point of
view, save raw materials by reducing waste. For
this, the necessary conditions for the production
of piece knitwear with plush weave on a flat
knitting machine are analysed and determined.
Continuing research on the study and use of the
technological capabilities of knitting equipment,
it should be noted that in the works of Mukimov
M.M., as noted above, a huge number of new
weave structures are given [19-26]. At the same
time, they describe in detail the method of
knitting, based on technological capabilities, the
arrangement and operation of the working bodies
of the machine. Expanding the technological
capabilities of two-way circular knitting
machines, it is recommended to create a second
line of culling with ordinary needles, when, when
producing double-sided plush knitwear, both
needle beds alternately knit loops, which achieves
a uniform depth of culling required to obtain a
uniform length of broaches on both sides of the
double-sided plush.
To date, all modern flat knitting machines
equipped with program control operate
according to the regular knitting method, i.e. Knit
3d products. At the same time, waste is up to 5%
and is reduced to 15-20% compared to the cut
method for the manufacture of knitwear, where
waste is up to 20-25%. Day by day, the operations
of the sewing process are gradually removed
more and more from the technology of
manufacturing knitwear using semi-regular and
regular methods (the list of websites is given in
the list of used literature [26-37]).
C
ONCLUSIONS
Based on the analysis, the results of studies aimed
at improving the quality of knitwear by changing
its structure and the effective use of raw materials
in knitwear production are summarized. By
analyzing the directions for expanding the range
and improving the structure of knitwear, it has
been established that special attention should be
paid to the development of effective technologies
for obtaining structures of weaves with the
addition of patterned elements. The insufficiency
of science-intensive developments of methods for
obtaining patterned knitwear with improved
quality indicators and reduced material
consumption has been established.
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Ubaydullayev, M. M., Ne'matova, F. J., &
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Shadieva, G. M., & Kuvandikov, S. O.
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Mahmudova, G., & Toshmirzayev, Q. About
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