Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
1
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
A
BSTRACT
This article presents the analysis results of the physical-mechanical and technological parameters of 3
variants of knitted fabrics with a new structure, woven using polyester and lycra yarns, and a
recommendation for the product range.
K
EYWORDS
Knitting, yarn, yarn, jacquard, texture, permeability, surface density, pattern, density, polyester, lycra.
Journal
Website:
http://sciencebring.co
m/index.php/ijasr
Copyright:
Original
content from this work
may be used under the
terms of the creative
commons
attributes
4.0 licence.
Research Article
ANALYSIS OF PHYSICOMECHANICAL PARAMETERS OF NEW
PATTERNED KNITTED FABRICS OBTAINED ON KNITTING
MACHINES WITH TWO CIRCULAR NEEDLES
Submission Date:
September 10, 2022,
Accepted Date:
September 20, 2022,
Published Date:
September 30, 2022
Crossref doi:
https://doi.org/10.37547/ijasr-02-09-01
Obidova Irodaxon Nozimjonovna
Basic Doctoral Student of Fergana Polytechnic Institute, Fergana, Uzbekistan
Kholikov Kurbonali Madaminovich
Professor, Namangan institute of Engineering and Technology, Namangan, Uzbekistan
Dadamirzayeva Shakhlo Maxamadali qizi
Basic Doctoral Student of Namangan institute of Engineering and Technology, Namangan, Uzbekistan
Rakhmatova Sadoqat Umarjanovna
Basic Doctoral Student of Namangan institute of Engineering and Technology, Namangan, Uzbekistan
Ergashev Ma’murjon Maqsud o‘g‘li
Basic Doctoral Student of Namangan institute of Engineering and Technology, Namangan, Uzbekistan
Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
2
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
I
NTRODUCTION
Today, there is a demand to expand the
assortment of competitive products with good
physicomechanical properties, hygienic and
aesthetic quality, using local raw materials
effectively, producing new structures of good
quality knitted fabrics, which are beautiful in
appearance, and affordable. Using new
techniques and technologies, raw material-saving
methods are widely used in the production of
various types of knitted textile products to
provide competitive products that meet the
demands of the domestic and foreign markets [1-
5].
Samples of 3 different types of two-layer knitted
fabrics of new structures woven from high-
density polyester and lycra yarns using the
laboratory equipment installed in the testing
laboratory of NamIET (Namangan Institute of
Engineering and Technology) technological
indicators and physical-mechanical properties
were studied [6-9].
M
ATERIALS AND METHODS
It is known that if the fabric structure or thread
composition of knitted fabric changes, its physical
and mechanical properties also change. Air
permeability is one of the main features that
ensure comfortable conditions for consumers
during the use of knitted products [10-14].
Air permeability coefficient V (cm
3
/ cm
2
sec) is
determined by the following formula
3
2
/
`
sec
V
B
cм
см
S T
(1)
where: V is the amount of air passing through the
fabric at a given pressure difference
R, cm
3
;
S - fabric area, cm
2
;
T` - the time of passage of the air passing through
the fabric, sec.
Table 1. Physical-mechanical indicators of knitted fabrics
Indicators
Options
By default
I
II
III
Type of thread, line density
Polyester 150D 20 texx2
Knitted surface density Ms,
(gr/m
2
)
289
273
153
Thickness t, (mm)
2.58
1.22
0.78
Bulk density d (mg/cm
3
)
112
223
196
Air permeability V
(cm
3
/cm
2
sec)
44.9
15.7
56.2
Outerwear
40-100
GOST 31410-2009
Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
3
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
Breaking
strength R (N)
By height
282
173
139
At least 80N
GOST 28554
By width
172
194
169
Elongation to
break L (%)
By height
188.3
386.8
79.2
group 1- Up to 40% at
6N;
groups 2- 40-100% at
6N
GOST 28554
By width
420.8
450.3
195.2
Irreversible
deformation en
(%)
By height
3
12.8
30
Not more than 15-20%
GOST 28882
By width
8
68
59
Return strain eo
(%)
By height
97
87.2
70
By width
91
32
41
Fabric
permeability K
(%)
By height
32.5
10
5
8-10% at most
GOST 26667
By width
10
17.5
0
Most b-n 8-10%
Abrasion resistance I
(thousand cycles)
Above
40000
Above
40000
Above
40000
30-60 years
61-120 solid
GOST
16486
The resulting patterned knitted fabrics have the
same raw material composition and are produced
using 20x2 tex polyester and lycra
yarn. The air permeability of the knitted fabric
samples under study varied from 15.7 cm3/cm2
sec to 56.2 cm
3
/cm
2
sec.
Figure 1. Air permeability histogram of double layer knitted fabric
Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
4
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
The lowest air permeability was determined in
the 2nd version of the mixed knit with a pattern
and its index was 15.7cm
3
/cm
2
sec, the most air
permeability is in the 3rd option. Air permeability
in option 3 is 56.2cm
3
/cm
2
constituted sec.The air
permeability of patterned knitwear is 72% less
than that of option 2 fabric. It was determined
that the 3rd variant of knitted fabric with a
polyester thread on the basis of Glad fabric has
high heat retention properties [15-18].
One of the parameters that determine the quality
of knitwear is its stiffness. The maturity
characteristic of knitwear is formed in its
breaking strength and elongation to break
indicators.
All GOSTs and TShs used for knitted fabrics
include normative indicators for elongation at
break and tensile strength. Breaking strength is
the force used to break a sample when stretched
at a given size and speed. Breaking force is
expressed in newtons. The tensile strength of the
tested knitted samples was determined using a
"YG-026T" dynamometer according to the
standard method.
The analysis of tissue stiffness, that is, breaking
strength, shows that the most mature tissue in
terms of length is option 1, its indicator is equal to
282 N, and the lowest indicator is option 3, and its
indicator is equal to 139 N. (Table 1, Figure 2).
The stiffness of the fabric across the width was
observed in the 2nd option, the tensile strength
across the fabric width was 194 N, and the lowest
tensile strength was observed in the 3rd option,
its indicator was 169 N.
Figure 2. Histogram of changes in tensile strength of the double-layer knitted fabric
Polyester fibres are soft and do not harm the skin,
they wrinkle less. The fibre has a non-
straightening twist and produces less pilling
than other synthetic fibres. Washes well with
water and dries quickly, has good heat retention
properties. Products made of polyester thread
can be washed many times without losing their
original appearance. Due to the presence of all the
Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
5
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
specified properties, it can be used in the textile
industry in the production of knitwear from
polyester yarn, mixed with other fibres (wool,
viscose, cotton fibre) in the production of wool
gauze.
The composition and amount of elements in the
row of loops affect the length of the yarn in the
row of loops and thus the stretchability of the
knitted fabric. The stretchability of knitted fabrics
is understood as its stretching under the influence
of applied force. Elongation is characterized by
the elongation of the sample being tested.
Elongation is expressed in absolute or relative
units. During the testing of knitted fabrics of
length 100 mm clamped on the YG-026T
dynamometer, their absolute and relative sizes
are the same. The lower the fabric elasticity, the
higher the shape retention properties of the
knitwear.
R
ESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The elongation of patterned knitted fabric is from
79.2% to 386.8%. The highest elongation in terms
of length was observed in the 3rd version of the
knitted fabric and it was 386.8% (Table 1). The
lengthwise elongation of the patterned knitted
fabric variant III was the least, and it was 79.2%.
The widthwise elongation of knitted fabrics
varied from 195.2% to 450.3%. The greatest
stretch in width was observed in the 2nd version
of knitting and it was 450.3%. The minimum
width elongation was observed in the 3rd version
of the knitted fabric and it was 195.2%.
In conclusion, it can be said that the length and
width of the knitted fabric stretch depend on the
structure of the knitted fabric and the type of
threads in it, GOST28554 meets the requirements
and can be recommended for the range of
outerwear. When designing products, it is
important to know the tensile properties of
knitted fabrics [3].
Figure 3. Histogram of the change in elongation to break of a double-layer knitted fabric
One of the most important features of knitted
products is shape retention. The shape-keeping
Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
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International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
feature of knitwear is characterized by its
elasticity, reversible and irreversible deformation
and permeability.
The total deformation e is as follows: the test
specimens of the strap part eq return at high
speed after 30 minutes when the loads are
removed; elastic deformation ee develops at a
small speed, due to the passage of the relaxation
process; plastic deformation ep does not return
after the loads are removed from the samples.
, %
к
э
п
(2)
The deformation of the knitted fabric changes
with the change of the thread thickness,
singleness and the number of loops. Not only the
description of the deformation but also the
condition of the knitting is determined internally
by two main forces: the elastic force of the yarn
bending towards the neck tends to straighten and
change the shape of the yarn. As a result, a
frictional force appears between the yarns,
prevents the placement of the yarns in the loop
and interferes with the structure of the knitted
fabric [4,5].
In the tested double-layer knitted fabric samples,
the percentage of longitudinal irreversible
deformation varied from 3% to 30%, and the
percentage
of
transverse
irreversible
deformation varied from 8% to 68% (Table 1,
Figure 4).
Figure 4. Histogram of change in irreversible deformation εн (%) of double-layer knitted fabric
In the tested double-layer knitted fabric samples,
the percentage of longitudinal recovery
deformation varied from 70% to 97%, and the
percentage of transverse deformation varied
from 32% to 91% (Table 1, Figure 5).
Such indicators of the percentage of recovery
deformation indicate that the double-layer
knitted fabric quickly returns to its original state
after stretching.
Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
7
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
Figure 5. Histogram of change in return deformation εо(%) of double-layer knitted fabric
Knitwear permeability refers to the change in the
size of knitwear during wet processing. Patterned
knitted fabrics based on Glad belong to the group
of low permeability in terms of length and width.
When processing knitted fabrics, the less the
knitted fabric penetrates, the higher its shape-
keeping properties. Studies were conducted to
study the effect of the amount of polyester and
lycra threads in double-layered mixed knitted
fabrics on permeability properties. From the
results of the penetration study of the double-
layer knitted fabric samples, it was found that the
length penetration varied from 5% to 32.5% and
the width penetration varied from 0% to 17.5%
(Table 1, Figure 6).
Figure 6. Introduction of double-layer mixed knitted fabric
histogram
Knitted fabrics are significantly more elastic than
textile fabrics, and have a highly flexible structure
even under the influence of small stresses. The
Volume 02 Issue 09-2022
8
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
09
Pages:
01-09
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
principle of operation of machines designed for
finishing knitted fabrics is almost no different
from machines designed for finishing textile
fabrics. It has been determined that one of the
main reasons for high penetration is excessive
deformation of knitted fabrics during finishing
operations.
C
ONCLUSION
In conclusion, due to the effect on the structure of
the patterned mixed knitted fabric obtained
based on ring rows, its thickness, warmth and
shape retention properties have increased.
Knitted fabric based on GladThe abrasion
resistance of the tissues is high in all three
options, and the abrasion resistance of the I, II and
III options is 40,000 thousand. was found to be
higher than (Table 1).
From the analysis of the physical and mechanical
properties of patterned knitted fabrics, it was
found that, as a result of changes in fabric
structures, positive effects on air permeability
properties, hardness, stretchability and friction
resistance properties of knitted fabric, the
properties of shape retention of knitted fabric are
strengthened.
The production of knitted fabrics from polyester
and rubber threads based on smooth, openwork
fabrics allows obtaining knitted products with
high hygienic and shape-keeping properties,
durability and beautiful appearance.
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