Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
9
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
A
BSTRACT
Nowadays, if the pole component is obtained due to the mixing of fibres in the technological process of
spinning, the production of textiles that meet the high aesthetic and hygienic operational requirements and
world demand has increased significantly. In the article, a comparative study of theoretical and
experimental methods in the analysis of tissue structure and physical-mechanical properties, theoretical
justification of the importance of thread parameters, research of ways to increase the hygienic properties
of the tissue in the production of shirt fabrics, silk and the development of a new type of cotton thread
tissue was comparatively analyzed.
K
EYWORDS
Light industry, textiles, sewing-knitting, leather-shoes, fur, shirt fabrics.
I
NTRODUCTION
In the Decision No. PQ-4453 of the President of
the Republic of Uzbekistan dated September 16,
2019 "On measures to further develop light
industry and stimulate the production of finished
products", in recent years, the light industry in the
Republic of textile, development of sewing-
Journal
Website:
http://sciencebring.co
m/index.php/ijasr
Copyright:
Original
content from this work
may be used under the
terms of the creative
commons
attributes
4.0 licence.
Research Article
ANALYSIS OF SHIRT FABRICS FROM A MIXTURE OF LOCAL
RAW MATERIALS
Submission Date:
December 01, 2022,
Accepted Date:
December 05, 2022,
Published Date:
December 12, 2022
Crossref doi:
https://doi.org/10.37547/ijasr-02-12-02
Oripov Jasurbek Ikromjon Ogli
Phd, Lecturer, Fergana Polytechnic Institute, Fergana, Uzbekistan
Yunusov Maqsudbek Davronbek Ogli
Master's Student, Fergana Polytechnic Institute, Fergana, Uzbekistan
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
10
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
knitting, leather-shoes and fur industries,
expansion of types and assortments of
manufactured finished products, as well as the
increase of production of competitive industrial
products intended for investment and export of
industry enterprises, introduction of modern
technologies that save energy and resources,
technical and technological re-equipment, on the
basis of which the tasks of ensuring population
employment, increasing people's incomes and
well-being have been set. Therefore, the creation
of textile production technology from a mixture of
local raw materials, and the creation of a new type
of textile production technology woven from
mixed yarns is one of the important urgent tasks
of today [1-7].
Therefore, - a comparative study of theoretical
and experimental methods in the analysis of
tissue
structure
and
physical-mechanical
properties, the theoretical justification of the
importance of thread parameters, research of
ways to increase the hygienic properties of the
tissue in the production of shirt fabrics, the tasks
of development and comparative analysis of a
new type of silk and cotton thread fabrics are
priority tasks.
Nowadays, if the pole component is obtained due
to the mixing of fibres in the technological process
of spinning, the production of textiles that meet
the high aesthetic and hygienic operational
requirements and world demand has increased
significantly. Taking advantage of these
opportunities, we also started our research
analysis to create a new type of shirt fabric. The
available assortment of sodas is constantly
changing [8-12].
The production of out-of-fashion, out-of-use, old-
style gas masks will be discontinued. In terms of
fibre composition, structure, finish and
properties, the assortment is updated due to the
creation of new fabrics. At the same time, some
articles of gas are produced for several decades.
For example, chit, satin, gray, mitkal, and poplin
are among them.
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
11
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
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2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
Figure 1. Samples from the assortment of different fabric
Description of common cotton fibre fabrics.
Common cotton fibre fabrics are divided into
household and technical varieties. Household
appliances make up a large part of this
assortment. Household cotton fibre fabrics are
diverse in colour, and structure, and are widely
used in the preparation of dresses, blouses, skirts,
trousers, suits, sundresses, pal too, sportswear,
special clothes, gymnasts and other items. When
knitting cotton fibre fabrics, all classes of weaving
wraps are used. In terms of dyeing, cotton fibre
fabrics are divided into raw, bleached, cedar,
melange, mulinirated, floral and floral printed
varieties. Made with a washable applet, non-
crumpled and non-penetrating finish. The
production of cotton fibre fabrics is increasing
year after year. Cotton fibre fabrics are divided
into 17 groups: chits, Bozs, underwear fabrics,
satins, shirts, clothing, etc. Most of the range of
household appliances belongs to the first six
groups. Some groups are divided into subgroups.
The range of cotton fibre fabrics is developing in
the following areas:
- to create gaskets that keep their shape well (flat,
smooth surface light gaskets of the boz and poplin
type), as well as flat or gauze with a classic crease
(which is a surface on which a feather is released
to one side).
- plastic gaskets - the creation of special, soft and
light gaskets, soft gaskets.
The range of cotton fibre fabrics will be changed
due to the production of new structural fabrics,
change in colorite, pattern, and various finishes.
New fabrics are being produced, such as gilded,
embroidered, etc.
The assortment is also being updated due to the
use of viscose and synthetic complex threads in
cotton fibre fabrics, and the addition of staple
synthetic fibres. Such fabrics are produced by the
cotton fibre gas industry, but they are included in
the range of silk fabrics. The technological
properties of fibre fabrics depend on their
structure. Depending on the type of yarn used,
cotton fibre fabrics are divided into the following
types:
1.
Cotton fibre fabrics are woven from spun yarn
in the re-combing method;
2.
Cotton fibre fabrics are woven from snow
yarn;
3.
Weaves are woven in re-combing methods,
adding spinning threads in different ways.
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
12
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
Figure 2. Samples of cotton fibre fabrics
Chit is a fabric woven in a surp braid from a yarn
of medium consistency.
A 18.5 tex yarn is used for the chit's tanda and
15.3 Tex yarn for the arc.
Relative density on Tanda 49-53%;
the mass of one meter of chit is 92-103 g.;
the width of the fence is 61-80cm.
Raw chit is called mid-mitral. A flower is pressed
into many chits, which are also produced as a
siderog. Children's and women's summer shirts,
blouses, sundresses, men's jackets, gowns, and
clothes are worn when bathing, volumes,
nightgowns, etc. are sewn from Chit. When
washed, the chit does not enter much on the arc,
3-5% on the tanda enters. A much thicker and
heavier fabric than chalk. Chalk is woven in a surp
braid from a yarn of a much thicker snowman
than the yarn used in chit. The div of typical
Bozs will be 25 tex, and the arc will be from 29 tex
yarn. The relative density of the Boz on the tanda
is similar to that of the chit, slightly higher on the
arch; the mass of 1 m2 of Boz is 140-160 g; the
width is 61-98 CM. the bow is coarser to the
fingers than the chit. The flower can be pressed on
only one side or both sides of the Bush. When the
flower is printed, the bow is used for sewing
men's jackets, children's suits, women's jackets,
and curtains. The Boz can be hard, shiny and
silvery with a finish. The technological properties
of Boz are similar to those of chit. The Bush is
quite firm and does not stretch much. When
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
13
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
washed, the chalk enters more (4-6 %) than the
chit on the tanda.
Satin-group includes satin braids woven in satin
braid and lastics woven in satin braid. The tire is
used less often than satin.
Depending on the thickness, satin and lastics are
woven in 14.3-11.7 textual yarn spinning in
return method, and 18.5-15.3 textual yarn
spinning in Cardan method is divided into woven
varieties. Satin and tires ten are smooth, shiny.
The relative density (70-75 %) on the arc is much
greater than the relative density (40-45 %) on the
coin so that the arc Strip in satin protrudes to ten.
The relative density of the tires on the arc is
greater than the relative density on the tanda.
In terms of Coloring, satin is divided into Cedar,
flower-printed and bleached varieties. Satin
obtained by the method of re-combing is
mercerized during finishing. Satin embroidery
with a printed pattern tolerates washing five
times. Due to the fact that the right is smooth, the
size of the relative density of the system that
forms the right, mercerized, satin tolerates
friction well and is used as a lining. On the satin
Arch does not enter much, on the tanda 1,5-2%
enters.
The group of shirt fabrics is very diverse. This
group includes knitted yarn with the addition of
summer, winter, seasonal and chemical complex
yarn.
A small group of summer fabrics includes sparse,
thin and light fabrics. They are mainly produced
as floral, but there will also be bleached ones.
Maya, volta, vual, marquisette, and batist are
knitted in a palotno braid from a spinning yarn in
the method of re-combing. These are now Little
produced.
Maya and vol are thin floral fabrics that are woven
from spinning single-strand yarn in a TA-re-comb
method.
Vual and marquisette are fine-tipped and re-
tousled yarn-woven fabrics. The flower is pressed
to the Vual. The marquisette is a fabric thinner
than the vual, bleached, gently colored and with a
floral print.
Batist is a thin, fine, bleached or flower-printed
fabric that is woven in a chamber braid from yarn
of thin single-strand yarn, which is spun in a re-
combing method.
The new range of shirt fabrics mainly includes all
kinds of fabrics in small-flowered sometimes-
large-flowered wraps, as well as gauze fabrics.
Depending on the method of production, woollen
fabrics are divided into camvole and movut
fabrics. Camvole fabrics are knitted from yarn of
yarn in the method of re-combing. Such fabrics
are considered the thinnest and lightest in
woollen fabrics, the pattern of their winding is
clearly recognizable. Movut fabrics are woven
from yarn spinning in a hardware way, and
camvol differs from fabrics in thickness, mass,
dust absorption. Movut fabrics have a
characteristic fluffiness, the surface is felt or
combed out. Movut fabrics are divided into soft
movut woven from fine wool and coarse movut
with short fibres. Coarse mowut fabrics, unlike
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
14
International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
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2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
soft mowut, strongly blend and sink into the
fingers.
The range of woollen fabrics will be updated due
to the production of fabrics with new structural
and winding patterns, as well as improving the
appearance and plastic properties of classic
structural fabrics. New directions in the
development of the assortment are associated
with the weaving of soft plastic fabrics with a silky
smooth surface, fabrics with a flat surface from
multi-colored melange yarn, fabrics with a
velvety surface, including feathery.
The range of shirt fabrics is produced from floral
printed fabrics, jacquard braided floral fabrics,
pure wool yarn and semi-yarn woven fabrics with
the addition of synthetic threads.
For summer dresses and shirt suits, fabrics are
produced that are of different structure but are
colored with the same structure but with
different colors.
For the range of coat fabrics, fabrics with erect
and bed hair, curly floral and Cedar coat fabrics
and drapes, and fabrics with a volumetric
structure with nitron fibre are produced.
Figure 3. Assortment of woolen fabrics
Camvole fabrics are divided into shirt, suit and pal
tolik varieties. Shirt camvole fabrics will be light,
the pattern of the braid is clearly known, they are
produced from 15-31 single-strand single-strand
yarn and 15x2-31x2 single-strand baked yarn.
Sheviot is a semi-woolen Cedar fabric woven in
sarja braid. Its div is made up of cotton thread.
Their color will be quite dark, the mass of 1 m2 of
fabric is 340-380 g.
Synthetic fibre wool fabrics form the kata part of
the range. The toughness of fabrics increases as a
result of the addition of synthetic fibres. Fabrics
with the addition of Lavsan are most often used.
Woolen fabrics with lavsan are much more
durable, Birch, resistant to light and weather
influences, do not wrinkle much, poorly penetrate
when cocked.
Nitron fibre wool fabrics are produced as suit and
shirt fabrics. It is not crumpled, it becomes
resistant to the effects of chemical reagents.
In terms of composition, structure and finishing
of fibres, silk fabrics will be diverse. 98% of the
range of silk fabrics is made up of fabrics woven
from chemical fibres.
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
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International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
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VOLUME
02
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Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
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)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
The assortment of silk fabrics often changes.
Their range is expanded at the expense of the use
of elastic, voluminous and profiled synthetic
threads (such threads are used independently or
combined with natural and artificial silk), the
complication of types of wraps (widespread use
of large-flowered complex wraps), various
methods of finishing silk fabrics (corrugation,
acceleration,
flower
pressing,
thermal
processing). The main areas of assortment
development:
creation of dense fabrics with bunk beds, glossy
surfaces; production of fabrics whose surfaces are
sharply different from each other (one side is
smooth, shiny, the other side is gray or smooth,
but dull) ;
using strong, shaped matured and textured yarn,
create elegant fabrics including eponj type
texture surface;
production of fabrics that give a barcode effect
and a twill spinning effect.
For the manufacture of beautiful T-shirt and T-
shirt-suit fabrics, textured threads with the
addition of acetate or triacetate fibre and
shimmery metal threads are widely used,
voluminous threads made of matured triacetate
silk with the addition of profiled Capron. Single-
layer and multi-layer, cedar and floral, flat and
voluminous structural fabrics woven in small-
flowered and large-flowered wrappers are
produced.
The range of plaid fabrics is complemented by
floral printed fabrics, staple , lavsan-viscose or
viscose-Capron mixed spun yarn with rubberized
fabrics woven from Ward wrapping, film-coated
fabrics to the right. Pure viscose and mixed coil
yarn: the production of staple fabrics woven from
triacetate-viscose, triacetate-viscose-Capron coil
yarn is expanding.
Silk fabrics are most often produced from raw silk
with a consistency of 1.5-2.3, from pitted natural
silk and spun silk threads. The mass of the
thinnest fabrics of 1 m2 is 14-22 g. The group of
natural silk fabrics includes crepe, glad, jacquard
feather and others.
Crepe fabrics are most commonly used. The
surface of the tissues of the crepe group, such as
crepe-deshin, crepe-chiffon, crepe-jorjet, is made
finely granular, thin, light, transparent these
fabrics give the crepe effect.
Among the Glad fabrics, silk-polotno is most
common, raw silk is used on the tandasi, and loose
baked silk on the arch. Silk-polotno-is a raw
yellowish or floral, dense and ungrateful fabric,
poorly crumpled.
Examples of jacquard fabrics are silk fabrics used
as decoration.
A velvety example of fluffy fabrics is that it is
produced in a fluffy braid from silk thread. The
mass of 1 m2 of fabric is 190 g.
Fabrics produced by adding other fibres to Silk
are produced by adding natural silk to cotton or
complex yarns, voluminous synthetic yarns. The
feathers of velvet fabrics will be made up of
Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
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International Journal of Advance Scientific Research
(ISSN
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2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
I
SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
I
MPACT
FACTOR
(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
METADATA
IF
–
7.356
viscose threads and the floor thread will be made
up of natural silk or cotton fibre yarn.
Fabrics made from artificial threads make up the
most numerous group of silk fabrics. They will be
much thicker, heavier, crumpled compared to
fabrics woven from natural fibre threads.
Applying the crepe method to the cooked strands
reduces the creakiness of the fabrics, but
increases the roughness.
Most fabrics woven from synthetic threads are
woven from complex threads with 3.8-6.5
textures. Profiled Capron threads are used to
make the fabrics shiny and shiny. Using 100%
Capron on the div and arch, lining, blouse and
plaid fabrics are used. Lining Capron fabrics are
very durable, resistant to abrasion, practically do
not penetrate, but do not tolerate heat very well,
and have very low hygienic performance.
The piece is a shiny, coarse fabric that is woven
from synthetic and viscose threads in small and
large floral wraps, using a lot of metal threads
(tongues, silvery threads) on the Arc System.
Metal threads are pulled out to the right of the
fabric.
Staple fabrics can be woven from artificial and
synthetic staple fibres. Most staple fabrics are
woven from viscose fibre threads. There are also
fabrics woven from acetate, triacetate and
synthetic staple fibres - lavsan and Nitron.
Usually, when spinning, staple fibres are mixed
into cotton fibres. The weldability of fabrics in
synthetic staple fibre insertion Nati. The barrier
resistance increases and keeps its shape well.
Depending on the thickness and mass, staple
fabrics are used as T-shirts, suits and pal fibre
fabrics.
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Volume 02 Issue 12-2022
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(ISSN
–
2750-1396)
VOLUME
02
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SSUE
12
Pages:
09-17
SJIF
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(2021:
5.478
)
(2022:
5.636
)
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IF
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