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MILLIY LIBOS VA SAN’ATI TARIXI: DIZAYN RIVOJLANISH
BOSQICHLARI YEVROPA, SHARQ VA O'ZBEKISTONDA
Termiz davlat universiteti
Jo’rayev Bekzod Omon o’g’li
Annotatsiya:
Ushbu maqolada milliy libos va uning dizayni san’ati Yevropa,
Sharq va O‘zbekiston kontekstida tarixiy bosqichma-bosqich rivojlanish asosida
ko‘rib chiqiladi. Har bir mintaqaning madaniy, ijtimoiy va estetik qadriyatlari milliy
liboslar orqali ifodalangan, hamda milliy kostyumning dizayndagi shakllanishi,
zamonaviy ifodalanish uslublari va mentalitet bilan bog‘liqligi tahlil qilinadi.
Kalit so‘zlar:
Milliy libos, dizayn tarixi, estetik meros, Yevropa, Sharq,
O‘zbekiston, kostyum evolyutsiyasi
KIRISH
Ma’lumki, arxeologik qazilmalar vaqtida kiyim 40-25 ming yillar avval
yartilganligi xulosa chiqarishga imkon beradi. Ya’ni kiyim dastlab ibtidoiy odam
dunyoga kelgach, uning rivojlanishi bilan paydo bo'lgan. Bundan ancha keyin
poyabzal paydo boladi, chunki u kostyumning boshqa elementlariga qaraganda hali
uncha ommabop bo‘lmagan edi. Biz kiyimga shunchalik o‘rganib qolganmizki, go‘yo
u nazarimizda hamisha va hamma davrlarda mavjud bo‘lganday tuyuladi. Bu borada
yana kostyumning o‘z davriga qarab tashqi ko‘rinishi muntazam o‘zgarib turganidan
uning eskirishini sezmay ham qolamiz. Garchand libos hamisha ham benuqson
bo‘lmagan esa-da, kiyimning paydo bo‘lishi, kelib chiqish tarixi qiziqarli va ibrat
bo‘larlidir. Kiyim bizga bir davr mobaynida muayyan xalqlar urf-odatlari, turmush
tarzi va yashash sharoitlarining qanday bo‘lganligi haqida ma’lumot berib, bu haqda
tasawurlarimiz boyishiga yordam beradi. Buning natijasida esa bizga qabila, jamoa
turmushi qanday kechganligi, urug‘-elatlar va turli xalqlaming madaniy, ma’naviy
rivojlanish tarixi ma’lum bo‘ladi.Hozirgi libosimiz tanani bo‘yash va tatuirovka
qilishning izdoshidir. Keyinroq ana shular inson tashqi qiyofasida estetik vazifani ado
eta boshlaydi. Oradan vaqtlar o‘tadi, toladan ip yigiriladi, mato to‘qilib, undan kiyim
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tikilgach ham tana bo‘yalgandagi chizgilar va tatuirovka alomatlari saqlanib
qolaveradi. Keyinchalik ana shu naqshlar matoga ko‘chadi: masalan, qadimiy keltlar
(o'tmishda G‘arbiy Yevropada yashagan qabilalar) tatuirovkasining katak-katak
chiziqlari matoda qolgan va hozirda shotland libosining milliy chizgisiga aylangan.
Tarixiy kostyumdagi bezaklar yangi ma’no kasb etadi - jamiyatda yuz
berayotgan jarayonlar - tabaqalanish libosda ham o‘z aksini topadi. Libos
insoniyatning qadimiy san’at turlaridan biri hisoblanadi. Uning vositasida nafaqat
tanani yopish, balki jamiyatdagi ijtimoiy maqom, estetik qarash va madaniy meros
ifodalanadi. Har bir mintaqa - Yevropa, Sharq va O‘zbekiston o‘ziga xos libos
dizayni an’analariga egadir. Mazkur maqolada milliy kostyum dizayni qanday
bosqichlardan o‘tganini tarixiy va madaniy jihatdan tahlil qilamiz.
Yevropada milliy libos dizayni rivojlanish bosqichlari:
1. Antik davr.
Antik Rim va Yunonistonda kiyimlar geometrik shakllar asosida
tikilgan bo‘lib, drapirovka asosiy uslub hisoblangan. Ranglar esa ijtimoiy maqomni
bildirgan.
2. O‘rta asrlar.
Gotika davrida liboslar uzun, tor va dekorativ elementlarga
boy bo‘ldi. Libos dizayni diniy va qirollik standartlariga mos bo‘lgan.
3. Renessans va barokk davri
.
Bu davrda erkak va ayol liboslari
murakkablashdi -yelka qismlari keng, bezaklar esa nafis zar bilan tikilgan. Barokk
davrida esa dizaynda hashamat va teatr elementlari ustunlik qildi.
4. XIX-XX asrlar.
Industrial inqilob libos ishlab chiqarishga standartlashuv
olib keldi. XIX asrda modaning Parij markaziga aylanishi bilan dizaynerlar
tushunchasi shakllandi. XX asrda avangard, modern, va futuristik yondashuvlar rivoj
topdi.
Sharqda milliy libos va dizayn san’ati:
1. Xitoy va Yaponiya
.
Sharqiy Osiyo mamlakatlarida liboslar falsafiy va
marosimiy ma’no kasb etgan. Masalan,
kimono
– soddaligi bilan ramziy shaklga ega,
har bir rang va naqshning o‘ziga xos ma’nosi mavjud. Xitoyda esa imperator kiyimlari
ranglar, tikuv usuli va hayvonlar tasviri bilan ajralib turardi.
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2. Eron va Arab dunyosi
.
Islomdan keyingi davrda liboslarda hijob, salafiylik,
pardoz va rasmiylik asosiy mezonlar bo‘lgan. Ko‘p hollarda liboslar Qur’on va
Hadisdagi ahkomlarga moslashgan holda dizaynlashgan.
3. Hindiston.
Hind libos san’ati matolarni qo‘lda bo‘yash, zar tikuv, va
zargarlik elementlari bilan boyitilgan.
Sari
va
kurta
kabi kiyimlar estetik va diniy
ifoda vositasi sifatida saqlanib qolgan.
O‘zbekistonda milliy libos va dizayn san’atining rivojlanish bosqichlari:
1. Qadimgi davr va ilk o‘rta asrlar
.
Samarqand va Buxoro kabi shaharlar
madaniy markaz sifatida shakllanib, ipak yo‘li orqali chet el matolari va bezaklari
bilan tanish bo‘lgan. Bu davrda
atlas, adras, zarduzi
san’ati keng rivojlangan.
2. Temuriylar davri
.
Temuriylar davrida saroy liboslari yuqori darajadagi
dizayn ifodasiga ega bo‘lgan. Liboslar zar bilan tikilgan, bosh kiyimlar esa turli
sultonlik ramzlari bilan bezatilgan.
3. Xonliklar davri (XVIII-XIX asrlar).
Buxoro, Xiva va Qo‘qon xonliklarida
har bir mintaqaning o‘ziga xos libos uslubi mavjud edi. Chopon, do‘ppi, lozim kabi
kiyimlar milliy identitet sifatida shakllangan.
4. Sovet davri va zamonaviylik
. Sovet davrida milliy liboslar ko‘plab
taqiqlarga duch keldi, biroq xalq orasida ular yashirincha saqlanib qoldi.
Mustaqillikdan so‘ng milliy dizaynga yangicha nigoh shakllandi - bu davrda
O‘zbekistonda dizayn ta’limi
paydo bo‘ldi va yosh dizaynerlar milliylikni
zamonaviylik bilan uyg‘unlashtirishni boshladi.
Xulosa.
Milliy libos - bu faqat estetik predmet emas, balki madaniy, ijtimoiy
va ma’naviy ko‘zgudir. Yevropa, Sharq va O‘zbekistondagi milliy liboslar o‘ziga xos
uslubiy va ramziy jihatlarga ega. Bugungi kunda milliy kostyumlarni zamonaviy
dizayn mezonlari bilan uyg‘unlashtirish orqali nafaqat milliylikni saqlash, balki uni
dunyo modasida targ‘ib qilish mumkin.
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