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PUBLISHED DATE: - 03-08-2024
https://doi.org/10.37547/tajiir/ NICSPEEP-2024-01-17
THE SECRETS OF FAST FASHION FINALLY REVEALED
Lin fan
National Sun Yat-sen University, Indonesia
Email: - linfan@cm.nsysu.edu.tw
Lavanchawee Sujarittanonta
Rajamangala University of Technology, Phra Nakhon, Thailand
Email: - Lavanchawee.s@rmutp.ac.th
INTRODUCTION
The Rise of Fast Fashion
Fast fashion emerged in the late 20th century and
has since become a dominant force in the global
clothing industry. Brands such as Zara, H&M, and
Forever 21 have pioneered this business model,
offering consumers affordable clothing that is
designed to mimic the latest runway trends. Fast
fashion has gained popularity due to its ability to
quickly produce and distribute clothing, allowing
consumers to keep up with ever-changing fashion
trends without breaking the bank (Joy et al. 2012).
The rise of fast fashion is a relatively recent
development. In the 1990s, retailers introduced a
weekly cycle of trendy, low-cost, and often low-
quality clothing to keep pace with the rapid
evolution of fashion trends. Fashion became
accessible, convenient, and disposable.
However, it's essential to recognise that fast
fashion is a privilege. It's a privilege to buy clothing
solely for its style, ignoring the environmental
consequences. In reality, the relentless cycle of
consumption driven by fast fashion means that the
garments we wear are increasingly likely to
contribute to the 92 million tons of textile waste
generated annually (Fletcher and Grose 2012).
Amid the pandemic, as brick-and-mortar stores
shuttered, consumers shifted away from
traditional fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara,
turning to e-commerce sensations like Shein and
Asos. These brands represent an escalation of both
fast fashion and its environmental impact (Wang
2022). These newcomers in the fast fashion
landscape thrived during the pandemic thanks to
their unique business models. They operate
exclusively online, enabling them to ship thousands
of new styles directly from their warehouses to
consumers daily, bypassing supply chain
disruptions and U.S. import duties. Simultaneously,
their reliance on inexpensive overseas labor and
RESEARCH ARTICLE
Open Access
Abstract
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synthetic materials ensures irresistibly low prices
(Niinimäki 2010).
Affordable fashion has dramatically transformed
the clothing choices of the majority of people. Cline
(2012) claims that the latest fashion trends are
now available at historically low prices. As a result,
there is little incentive to continue wearing and
repairing existing garments when fashion trends
evolve so rapidly. It is simply more cost-effective to
acquire new pieces. ‘Fast fashion’ is so called partl
y
because the fashion industry now releases new
lines every week, when historically this happened
four times a year. Today, fashion brands produce
almost twice the amount of clothing that they did in
2000, most of it made in China and other middle-
income countries such as Turkey, Vietnam and
Bangladesh. Worldwide, 300 million people are
employed by the industry (Tiefenbeck 2022).
But what is the true impact of this proliferation of
inexpensive fashion? What are we really doing with
this abundance of affordable clothing? Even more
importantly, what consequences do these choices
have for us, our society, our environment, and our
economic stability?
The Case of Zara
Zara, part of the Inditex Group, is one of the world's
largest and most renowned fashion retailers.
Founded in 1974 by Amancio Ortega in La Coruña,
Spain, Zara has grown to become a global fashion
giant known for its rapid response to fashion
trends, quick production cycles, and vertically
integrated supply chain. This short case study
based on O’She
a (2020) examines the key factors
that have contributed to Zara's success and its
impact on the fashion industry.
Zara's success can be attributed to its unique
business model, which focuses on speed, flexibility,
and customer-centricity. Unlike traditional fashion
retailers that plan their collections months in
advance, Zara relies on a "fast fashion" model. The
company
constantly
monitors
customer
preferences and market trends, allowing it to
design, produce, and distribute new collections
within weeks. This approach enables Zara to stay
ahead of competitors and deliver fresh, trendy
merchandise to its stores regularly.
Zara's supply chain is a critical element of its
business model. The company owns much of its
production, which includes manufacturing
facilities in Spain and other countries. While Zara
has been a pioneer in fast fashion, it has faced
criticism for its environmental impact and labor
practices. In response, the company has
implemented several sustainability initiatives,
such as joining the fashion pact, sustainable fabric
use, or a transparent supply chain. While the
company has faced criticisms and challenges, it
continues to adapt and evolve. Zara serves as a case
study in how a traditional retailer can embrace fast
fashion, respond to consumer trends, and address
sustainability concerns in the 21st century. As the
fashion
industry
undergoes
further
transformations, Zara's ability to innovate will
determine its future success.
The Case of Uniqlo
For Yudhistira and Saggaf Shihab (2023), Uniqlo
brand loyalty is so unique that it supports the
business stability of the brand. The Japanese
fashion retailer has gained global recognition for its
unique approach to fast fashion. Known for its
focus on quality, innovation, and sustainability,
Uniqlo has disrupted the traditional fast fashion
paradigm. Uniqlo, short for "Unique Clothing
Warehouse," was founded in Japan in 1984 as a
small retail store offering affordable, high-quality
basics. Under the guidance of its parent company,
Fast Retailing Co., Ltd., Uniqlo embarked on a
journey of expansion, both within Japan and
globally. Uniqlo's business model is grounded in
several key principles that set it apart from
traditional fast fashion retailers. These include a
commitment to product quality, innovative design
collaborations, efficient supply chain management,
and a focus on functionality and simplicity. Uniqlo
employs a unique marketing strategy that
emphasises the universality of its products and the
notion that "Made for All" transcends cultural and
demographic boundaries. Through global brand
ambassadors
and
innovative
advertising
campaigns, Uniqlo communicates its brand
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message effectively. This section explores Uniqlo's
marketing strategies and their impact on the
brand's image.
Uniqlo's dedication to quality is a cornerstone of its
success. The company places a premium on fabric
technology, clothing durability, and comfort. Its
LifeWear concept underscores the idea that
clothing should improve people's lives. This section
delves into Uniqlo's quality-focused approach and
its implications for both consumers and the
environment.
In recent years, Uniqlo has made significant strides
in promoting sustainability. This includes efforts to
reduce waste, minimise environmental impact, and
ensure responsible sourcing and production.
Uniqlo's commitment to sustainability aligns with
the broader industry shift towards more eco-
conscious practices. This section examines Uniqlo's
sustainability initiatives and their implications.
Uniqlo's remarkable journey from a small Japanese
store to a global fashion powerhouse underscores
the potential for redefining fast fashion. By
prioritising quality, innovation, and sustainability,
Uniqlo has carved a unique niche within the
industry. Its success story serves as a testament to
the evolving demands of consumers and the need
for businesses to adapt. As the fashion industry
navigates changing landscapes, Uniqlo provides
valuable lessons for companies seeking to thrive
while embracing responsibility and sustainability.
The Impact of Consumer Behaviour
The fast fashion industry has transformed the way
consumers shop for clothing, emphasising speed,
affordability, and trend-driven designs. This
transformation is intrinsically linked to consumer
behaviour, as fast fashion retailers closely monitor
and respond to consumer preferences and
purchasing patterns (Fletcher 2008).
Consumer behaviour shapes production decisions,
sustainability efforts, and the overall trajectory of
this sector. The dynamic interplay between
consumer preferences and industry practices
underscores the importance of understanding and
adapting to changing consumer behaviour. As
consumers continue to demand transparency,
sustainability, and ethical practices, fast fashion
brands must evolve to meet these expectations
while maintaining the affordability and trend-
driven appeal that defines the industry. Balancing
these competing demands will be crucial for the
future success and sustainability of fast fashion
(Sassatelli 2007).
One of the key drivers of fast fashion is consumer
demand for constantly evolving styles at low
prices. The "wear it once" culture has become
prevalent, with consumers buying clothing,
wearing it a few times, and then discarding it. The
evidence is clear from the data. In 1995, the textile
industry manufactured 7.6 kilograms of fibre per
person globally. Fast forward to 2018, and this
number had nearly doubled to 13.8 kilograms per
person. It's worth noting that during this period,
the world's population also grew, from 5.7 billion
to 7.6 billion people. Currently, over 60 million
tonnes of clothing are purchased annually, and this
figure is projected to surge even higher, reaching
approximately 100 million tonnes by 2030
(Tiefenbeck 2022). This disposable fashion
mentality has several negative consequences
(Minton 2011):
-
Environmental Impact: Fast fashion is a
major
contributor
to
environmental
degradation. The production of clothing
involves vast amounts of water, energy, and
chemicals. Additionally, the disposal of
discarded clothing contributes to textile
waste in landfills.
-
Exploitative Labor Practices: Fast fashion's
emphasis on low production costs often
leads to labor exploitation in developing
countries. Workers in garment factories may
endure poor working conditions, low wages,
and long hours.
-
Loss of Craftsmanship: The focus on speed
and
cost-effectiveness
often
means
sacrificing the quality and craftsmanship of
clothing. Traditional, well-made garments
are increasingly being replaced by cheap,
mass-produced alternatives.
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According to Kaplan et al. (2023), policymakers
bear a pivotal responsibility in encouraging fast-
fashion retailers to shift toward more sustainable
and circular business models. Greenwashing, a
deceptive marketing strategy that has gained
prominence in recent years, must be combated for
genuine sustainability and transparency in today's
marketplace.
Greenwashing
perpetuates
artificially high demand and diminishes consumer
guilt, thereby obstructing the transition to a
circular economy. Instead, policymakers can adopt
taxation, regulations, education, and consumer
empowerment. The concept of greenwashing can
be traced back to the early 1960s when
environmental awareness began to emerge.
Businesses started using environmental claims to
improve their public image and sales. Over the
decades, greenwashing tactics have evolved to
become increasingly sophisticated, making it more
challenging for consumers to differentiate genuine
sustainability efforts from deceptive marketing
ploys. Common tactics include vague or misleading
labels, false certifications, exaggerated claims of
eco-friendliness, and the selective promotion of
environmentally responsible aspects while
concealing unsustainable practices.
As a result, Andres and Sempere Ripoli (2023) feel
that they can compare “fast fashion” and “fast
education”. Indeed university students often
encounter a challenge where they grasp theoretical
knowledge but struggle to apply it in real-life
situations. Their learning process is rapid, but their
retention is fleeting. When faced with practical
problems outside the classroom, they struggle to
connect these issues with the theoretical solutions
they encountered at the university. By the same
token in the realm of fast fashion, renowned brands
and top designers invest substantial effort in
creating unique, imaginative, and attractive fashion
pieces. However, within a short span, these
distinctive items are essentially copied by fast
fashion chains and sold worldwide at remarkably
low prices. Over time, this discourages original
creators from engaging in such meticulous work. In
the context of fast learning, educators put in
significant effort, but the creation of materials and
lesson preparation often goes unrewarded in terms
of achieving the desired student learning
outcomes. Consequently, students tend to learn
quickly but lack intrinsic motivation. Their primary
motivation revolves around passing exams, leading
to last-minute cramming and ultimately a swift
forgetting of the material once the assessment
concludes. In fast fashion, a disposable image
predominates. If clothing items are worn only a few
times before being discarded, the style is
temporary and transient. It becomes challenging to
establish and maintain a personal style over time
due to the rapid pace of changing trends. In fast
learning, when the concepts learned are short-
lived, the learning process becomes temporary and
transitory,
lacking
depth
and
lasting
understanding.
Developing
a
sustainable
methodology for students to retain their learning
over time becomes increasingly difficult. Educators
invest significant effort in creating learning
materials, but they often fail to establish practices
that enable students to apply and retain the
concepts. Students spend several months
immersed in a subject, only to quickly forget what
they've learned. This process essentially becomes
"learning to unlearn," leading to a substantial time
cost that makes little sense in the long run.
The Environmental Consequences
While it provides consumers with affordable and
trendy clothing, the environmental consequences
of this industry are profound. Fast fashion is known
for its environmental toll, primarily due to the
following factors:
-
Waste: The fast fashion model encourages
overconsumption and rapid disposal of
clothing, leading to a significant amount of
textile waste. This "throwaway" culture
means that vast amounts of textiles end up in
landfills, contributing to textile waste. Many
of these textiles are not biodegradable,
contributing to long-lasting pollution.
-
Resource Depletion: The production of fast
fashion garments consumes vast amounts of
water and non-renewable resources. This
contributes
to
water
scarcity
and
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environmental degradation in regions
where textiles are produced.
-
Chemical Pollution: The dyeing and finishing
processes in textile production involve the
use of toxic chemicals, including dyes,
solvents
and
fixatives,
which
can
contaminate water sources and harm
ecosystems, affecting both aquatic life and
human health. Synthetic fabrics shed micro-
plastic particles when washed, entering
waterways and oceans. These microfibres
are ingested by aquatic organisms,
potentially entering the food chain.
-
Carbon Footprint: The transportation of
clothing from production centres to retail
stores and consumers' homes generates a
substantial carbon footprint.
Sustainable Alternatives
To mitigate these consequences, it is imperative for
consumers to make informed choices, for the
industry to adopt sustainable practices, and for
policymakers to enact regulations that address
these pressing issues. The future of fashion lies in a
more sustainable and responsible approach that
values both the environment and the well-being of
all stakeholders involved.
While fast fashion may offer an enticing blend of
style and savings, we must now, more than ever,
acknowledge that we can't simply measure the real
cost of our clothing by its price tag. Sahimaa et al.
(2023) even argue that fast fashion cannot be fixed
—
the whole industry needs to be reconstructed to
emphasise long material and product lifetimes.
When consumers seek to refresh their wardrobes,
they have sustainable options, including thrift
shopping, up-cycling old garments, or researching
environmentally-conscious brands.
In response to the negative impacts of fast fashion,
there has been a growing movement towards
sustainable and ethical fashion practices
(Pookulangara and Shephard 2013). These
alternatives
prioritise
environmental
responsibility, fair labor practices, and quality over
quantity. Some key developments include:
-
Slow Fashion: Slow fashion advocates for
timeless, high-quality clothing that is
designed to last. It promotes responsible
consumption
and
considers
the
environmental and social impacts of
production.
-
Ethical Production: Brands are increasingly
transparent about their supply chains,
ensuring fair wages and safe working
conditions for workers. Certification bodies
like Fair Trade and GOTS (Global Organic
Textile Standard) help consumers identify
ethical products.
-
Upcycling and Recycling: Some designers
and brands focus on repurposing old
clothing and materials, reducing waste and
environmental impact.
Research on sustainable consumption has been on
the rise (Ramonienė 2023). The motivations,
values, and communication strategies of business
owners are centred around inspiring change in
consumers' behaviours, taking responsibility to
demonstrate respect for stakeholders and the
environment, adopting a deliberate and unhurried
approach in all aspects from design to shipping,
and fostering a conscious and well-informed
community.
Papasolomou, Melanthiou and Tsamouridis
(2023)’s
research
investigates
whether
consumers'
knowledge
about
fashion
sustainability falls short of translating into
environmentally conscious purchasing decisions.
In pursuit of encouraging more sustainable fashion
consumption, they claim that providing clear
information regarding the environmental and
social impacts of products and eliciting strong
emotional responses could be effective strategies.
While many consumers claim to possess
knowledge about sustainability issues, their
understanding tends to be incomplete, particularly
regarding aspects tied to the sustainable supply
chain, such as fabric, materials, recycling, or
reusing fashion items. Furthermore, women
display greater knowledge in this area, while men
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exhibit a willingness to pay a premium for fast
fashion brands that align with their moral values.
Abbate, Centobelli and Cerchione (2023) have
looked at how fashion companies are adapting
their value chains to address the increasing
demands from stakeholders for sustainability and
a circular economy approach. They reveal that
customer demand for transparent supply chains
and the preference for certified suppliers play a
significant role in influencing how apparel
companies develop their business models. These
factors compel companies to undergo a profound
transformation in their value proposition, creation,
and delivery. Such innovations in circular business
models and emerging digital technologies
empower apparel businesses to manage
stakeholder engagement and promote sustainable
development. For example the connection between
social networks and consumption has undergone a
transformation (García Calaza, Casal and Corbacho
Valencia 2023). Initially, social networks
encouraged fast fashion, but now they advocate for
the idea of slow fashion. Consequently, this shift
has given rise to the emergence of reselling
applications that employ similar tools as social
networks. There are two distinct approaches to
luxury in the second-hand clothing market. The
first is a considered luxury, referred to as
"deliberate luxury," which emphasizes reflection
and seeks attributes like creativity, exclusivity, and
reuse. The second is an automated luxury, termed
"iconic luxury," which involves post-commercial
items, authenticity, and resale.
Thus Pop, Hlédik and Dabija (2023) have studied
how the utilitarian, hedonic, and social attributes of
mobile apps impact consumers' attitudes and
purchase intentions within the context of fast
fashion mobile apps. Among their many uses,
applications play a crucial role in enhancing
consumers' shopping experiences by aiding in the
decision-making process. They found that hedonic
motivations wield a more substantial influence on
consumers' attitudes compared to utilitarian
motivations. Furthermore, attitudes play multiple
mediation roles, and the disruptions in shopping
behaviour triggered by the COVID-19 pandemic
moderate the relationship between attitude and
purchase intention. Such findings hold significant
implications for fashion retailers seeking to
optimise their mobile applications and enhance the
overall consumer experience.
In recent years, the fashion and textile industries
have faced mounting pressure to align with
customer expectations. Previous research has
often indicated that female consumers tend to be
more active in clothing purchases and display a
greater interest in fashion. However, studies
investigating
consumer
attitudes
toward
sustainable fast fashion consumption have
primarily overlooked the perspective of female
consumers. Additionally, they have not delved into
the impact of sustainable business strategies on
consumer purchasing behaviour. To address this
gap, Hageman et al. (2023) have focused on the
purchasing behaviours of female consumers in
response to the sustainable business strategies
implemented by fast fashion firms. They found that
female consumers exhibit a significant degree of
sustainability consciousness, and are well-
informed about the sustainable initiatives
undertaken
by
fast
fashion
companies.
Furthermore, sustainable initiatives exert an (often
unconscious) influence on the attitudes and
purchasing behaviour of female consumers.
Consequently, it is imperative for fast fashion
companies to conduct a thorough examination of
how their sustainability efforts and strategies
shape the attitudes and purchasing behaviour of
female consumers.
Alptekinoglu et al. (2023) have observed that as
consumers become more involved in the
customisation process, their perception of the
degree of customisation increases. This shift occurs
as customer involvement moves upstream from
Use to Assembly, Fabrication, and finally, Design.
The anticipated lifespan of products and
customers' willingness to pay both increase
significantly when customer involvement is shifted
upstream to the Design stage. Therefore mass
customisation, particularly when focused on the
Design stage, may offer a potential solution to
mitigate the negative impacts of fast fashion on the
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environment. This approach not only aligns with
sustainability goals but also presents a win-win
opportunity for both the environment and
businesses, provided it does not come with
significant cost disadvantages.
CONCLUSION
Fast fashion has transformed the clothing industry,
making fashion more accessible to a wider range of
consumers. Consumer demand has played a pivotal
role in the rapid growth of the fast fashion industry,
making it a significant challenge for governments
aiming to promote a green economy and achieve
sustainable development goals. Consumers'
engagement in fast fashion consumption is strongly
influenced by social motives. Despite being aware
of the inherent characteristics of fashion items,
which often include fading and a short lifecycle that
encourages frequent purchases, resulting in waste
and overconsumption, social media and societal
factors motivate consumers toward impulsive
buying behaviours concerning fast fashion
products (Rosely and Syed Ali 2023).
However, its rapid production cycles, disposable
culture,
and
environmental
and
ethical
consequences raise important concerns. As
consumers become more conscious of these issues,
there is a growing movement toward sustainable
and ethical alternatives that prioritise the well-
being of people and the planet over fleeting trends.
To address the environmental and social
challenges posed by fast fashion, it is crucial for
consumers, brands, and policymakers to continue
supporting and implementing sustainable and
ethical practices within the fashion industry.
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