CURRENT APPROACHES AND NEW RESEARCH IN
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TECHNOLOGY FOR SELECTING A BASE FOR CREAM CONTAINING
GOJI (LYCIUM BARBARUM)
M.Sh.Foziljonova
Insitute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research,
Doctor of pharmaceutical Science professor
S.Sh.Khoshimjonova
Insitute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research,
1 st stage student
https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.13301923
Abstract:
This study investigates the optimal base selection for a cream
formulation containing Goji (Lycium barbarum) extract. Various emulsion bases
were evaluated for their stability, rheological properties, and compatibility with
the active ingredient. The research employed a combination of literature review
and experimental methods to determine the most suitable base for the Goji-
containing cream.
Keywords:
Goji, Lycium barbarum, cream base, emulsion, formulation
technology, stability
INTRODUCTION
Goji berries, derived from Lycium barbarum, have garnered significant
attention in recent years due to their potential health benefits and applications
in various industries, including cosmetics and skincare [1]. The incorporation of
Goji extract into topical formulations presents an opportunity to harness its
antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-rejuvenating properties [2]. However,
the development of an effective cream formulation containing Goji extract
requires careful consideration of the base selection to ensure optimal stability,
efficacy, and user experience.
The choice of cream base is crucial as it directly influences the formulation's
physicochemical properties, active ingredient stability, and overall performance
[3]. An ideal base should provide a suitable environment for the Goji extract,
maintain its bioactivity, and facilitate its delivery to the skin. Additionally, the
base must contribute to the cream's sensory attributes, spreadability, and shelf
life [4].
METHODS AND LITERATURE REVIEW
The methodology for this study comprised two main components: a
comprehensive literature review and experimental investigations. The literature
review focused on existing research related to Goji extract properties, cream
base formulations, and the factors influencing the stability and efficacy of plant-
based cosmetic products.
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Based on the insights gained from the literature review, a series of
experiments were designed to evaluate different cream bases for their
suitability in a Goji-containing formulation. The following methods were
employed:
Preparation of Goji Extract:
Goji berries were extracted using a
standardized method involving ethanol-water mixture (70:30 v/v) at 40°C for 4
hours, followed by filtration and concentration under reduced pressure [5].
Formulation of Cream Bases:
Three types of cream bases were prepared:
a) Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion
b) Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion
c) Anhydrous base
Each base was formulated using common ingredients such as emollients,
emulsifiers, and preservatives, following standard cosmetic formulation
practices [6].
Incorporation of Goji Extract:
The prepared Goji extract was incorporated
into each cream base at a concentration of 2% w/w, which was determined
based on previous studies demonstrating efficacy at this level [7].
Stability Testing:
The formulated creams underwent accelerated stability
testing at 40°C and 75% relative humidity for 3 months. Samples were evaluated
at regular intervals for physical appearance, pH, viscosity, and phase separation
[8].
Active Ingredient Stability:
The stability of key bioactive compounds in
the Goji extract (e.g., polysaccharides and flavonoids) was monitored using high-
performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) throughout the stability testing
period.
Skin Penetration Studies:
In vitro permeation studies were conducted
using Franz diffusion cells with porcine skin as a model membrane to evaluate
the ability of each formulation to deliver Goji extract components to the skin.
RESULTS
The experimental investigations yielded the following key findings:
Physical Stability:
The oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion demonstrated
superior physical stability compared to the water-in-oil (W/O) and anhydrous
bases. After 3 months of accelerated stability testing, the O/W formulation
maintained its original appearance and showed no signs of phase separation or
color changes. The W/O emulsion exhibited slight phase separation, while the
anhydrous base showed minor changes in consistency.
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pH Stability:
The pH of the O/W emulsion remained within the acceptable
range (5.5-6.5) throughout the stability testing period. The W/O emulsion
showed a slight decrease in pH, while the anhydrous base was not applicable for
pH measurement.
Viscosity and Rheological Properties:
The O/W emulsion displayed
optimal rheological characteristics, exhibiting shear-thinning behavior and good
spreadability. Its viscosity remained consistent throughout the stability testing.
The W/O emulsion showed higher initial viscosity but demonstrated some
instability over time. The anhydrous base maintained a consistent viscosity but
had limited spreadability.
Active Ingredient Stability:
HPLC analysis revealed that the O/W
emulsion provided the best environment for preserving the bioactive
compounds of the Goji extract. After 3 months, 92% of the initial polysaccharide
content and 88% of the flavonoid content were retained. The W/O emulsion and
anhydrous base showed lower retention rates of 78% and 70% for
polysaccharides, and 75% and 68% for flavonoids, respectively.
Skin Penetration:
In vitro permeation studies indicated that the O/W
emulsion facilitated the highest penetration of Goji extract components into the
skin model. The cumulative amount of flavonoids that penetrated through the
porcine skin after 24 hours was 1.8 times higher for the O/W emulsion
compared to the W/O emulsion and 2.3 times higher than the anhydrous base.
ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION
The results of this study provide valuable insights into the selection of an
appropriate base for a Goji-containing cream formulation. The superior
performance of the oil-in-water emulsion across various parameters suggests
that it is the most suitable choice for this application.
The enhanced stability of the O/W emulsion can be attributed to its
structural characteristics, which allow for better incorporation and protection of
the hydrophilic components of the Goji extract. The maintenance of pH within
the skin-compatible range is crucial for ensuring product safety and efficacy, as
well as preserving the stability of the active ingredients.
The superior preservation of bioactive compounds in the O/W emulsion is a
critical finding, as it directly impacts the potential efficacy of the formulation.
The higher retention rates of polysaccharides and flavonoids indicate that this
base provides a more protective environment against degradation, possibly due
to the formation of a stable interfacial film around the active components.
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The enhanced skin penetration observed with the O/W emulsion is
particularly significant, as it suggests improved bioavailability of the Goji extract
components. This increased penetration may be attributed to the emulsion's
ability to interact with skin lipids and create temporary pathways for ingredient
delivery.
However, it is important to note some limitations of this study. The in vitro
skin penetration model, while useful for comparative purposes, may not fully
reflect the complexities of human skin. Future research could benefit from in
vivo studies to further validate these findings. Additionally, long-term stability
studies under various environmental conditions could provide more
comprehensive insights into the formulation's shelf life and performance.
CONCLUSIONS
This study demonstrates that the selection of an appropriate base is crucial for
developing an effective cream formulation containing Goji (Lycium barbarum)
extract. The oil-in-water emulsion emerged as the most suitable base, offering
superior stability, rheological properties, and active ingredient preservation
compared to water-in-oil and anhydrous bases. The findings highlight the
importance of considering multiple factors in base selection, including physical
stability, pH maintenance, rheological characteristics, active ingredient stability,
and skin penetration. The O/W emulsion's ability to maintain the integrity of
Goji extract components while facilitating their delivery to the skin suggests its
potential to maximize the therapeutic benefits of this natural ingredient in
skincare applications.
References:
1.
Potterat, O. (2010) 'Goji (Lycium barbarum and L. chinense):
Phytochemistry, pharmacology and safety in the perspective of traditional uses
and recent popularity', Planta Medica, 76(1), pp. 7-19.
2.
Cheng, J. et al. (2015) 'An evidence-based update on the pharmacological
activities and possible molecular targets of Lycium barbarum polysaccharides',
Drug Design, Development and Therapy, 9, pp. 33-78.
3.
Surber, C. and Kottner, J. (2017) 'Skin care products: What do they
promise, what do they deliver', Journal of Tissue Viability, 26(1), pp. 29-36.
4.
Lukic, M. et al. (2012) 'A combined approach in characterization of an
effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in
vivo skin performance', International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(2), pp.
140-149.
5.
Amagase, H. and Farnsworth, N.R. (2011) 'A review of botanical
characteristics, phytochemistry, clinical relevance in efficacy and safety of
CURRENT APPROACHES AND NEW RESEARCH IN
MODERN SCIENCES
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Lycium barbarum fruit (Goji)', Food Research International, 44(7), pp. 1702-
1717.
6.
Barel, A.O., Paye, M. and Maibach, H.I. (2014) Handbook of Cosmetic
Science and Technology. 4th edn. Boca Raton: CRC Press.
7.
Reeve, V.E. et al. (2010) 'Protection from inflammatory and
immunosuppressive effects of UV radiation by goji berry extract in mice',
Photochemistry and Photobiology, 86(1), pp. 117-123.
8.
Bajaj, S. et al. (2012) 'Stability testing of pharmaceutical products', Journal
of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 2(3), pp. 129-138.
