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TYPES AND IMPORTANT INGREDIENTS OF HAIR SHAMPOOS.
Xaydarova Shaxrizoda Husan qizi
student of Tashkent International University
Abstract:
Shampoo is a foam cleanser for hair and scalp. Unlike alkaline soap,
it has a neutral or slightly acidic pH. Shampoo is designed to remove fat, dead cells
from the hair and scalp. Everything else is the function of conditioners, balms, anti-
dandruff products and others.Shampoos are one of the largest products in the cosmetics
industry and the market for them is constantly growing. If at first shampoos were
treated exclusively as hygiene products, then in the future the market demanded the
presence of additional properties - softer care, the absence of irritating properties, the
presence of biologically active, functional and aesthetic additives. Today, shampoo is
the most used cosmetic product, which is subject to the highest requirements.Shampoo
of the new generation has not only excellent washing, but also conditioning properties.
It contains a balanced composition of ingredients, useful additives that care for hair,
protect it from aggressive external influences, and contribute to its restoration.The
purpose of the work is to study the mechanism of action of shampoos on hair, to
consider the composition of shampoos depending on the type of hair.
Keywords:
Hair, shampoo, anionics, cationics, amphoterics, non ionics,
conditioner.
Surfactants used in Shampoos
A surfactant is a blend of surface active agents. They are organic compounds
that are both lipophilic and hydrophilic (amphiphilic) and have the ability to orient
themselves according to the polarities of two opposing phases. The hydrocarbon fatty
chain constitutes the non-polar part of the surfactant and gets in contact with the
lipophilic part of the interface (fatty material). The polar group (hydrophilic) which is
located at the end of the fatty acid chain strongly interacts with water molecules by
dipole or ion-dipole interactions (water-soluble) and removes the dirt that is
entrapped.[1]
Surfactants Classification
Surfactants are classified into four different categories according to the type of
the polar end: Anionics, Cationics, Amphoterics and Nonionics.
Table 1
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Different types of surfactants according to the type of the polar end .
Anionics
The surfactants that have a hydrophilic head carrying a negative charge are
defined as anionics. Those types of surfactants have excellent emulsifying, detergent
and foaming properties which are the main reason for their use in shampoos. Also, they
are divided into five major chemical classes:
Acylated Amino Acids
Carboxylic Acids
Sulfonic Acid Derivatives
Sulfuric Acid Derivatives
Phosphoric Acid Derivatives
Cationics
These surfactants carry a positive charge on their polar group and are also
divided in different
categories, as follows:
Quaternarie amines
Alkyl Amines
Alkyl Imidazolines
Since cationic surfactants show affinity for the hair fibres and provide softness
and mildness, the lather is poor and the redeposition of the dirt onto the hair may occur.
These surfactants do not clean, being the conditioning of the hair their main function.
Also, the incompatibility with anionic surfactants limits their use together in shampoos
formulations.
Amphoterics
If the hydrophilic head behaves as a function of pH, that is, carry a positive
charge at low pH and a negative charge at high pH, the surfactants are classified as
amphoterics. There are two categories of amphoterics:
Alkylamido Alkyl Amines
Alkyl Substituted Aminoacids.[2]
NONIONIC DETERGENTS
The nonionic detergents are the second most popular surfactants, behind the
anionic detergents, and bear the name nonionic, as they have no polar group. These are
the mildest of all surfactants and are used in combination with ionic surfactants as a
secondary cleanser. Examples of nonionic detergents currently used in shampoos are
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polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters and
alkanolamides.[3]
NATURAL DETERGENTS
The synthetic detergents previously discussed have largely replaced natural
detergents, until recently, when botanically based hair care products have made a
resurgence. Natural surfactants come from plants such as sarsaparilla, soapwort, soap
bark, and ivy agave. These natural saponins have excellent lathering capabilities, but
are poor cleansers thus must be present at high concentration. Usually, they are
combined with other synthetic detergents that have been outlined earlier.The synthetic
detergents providemost of the hair and scalp cleansing, while the botanicals are largely
added for marketing purposes.[4]
CONDITIONERS IN SHAMPOO FORMULATIONS
Even as the main intent of a shampoo is to cleanse the scalp and hair, over
cleansed hair is not cosmetically acceptable. Hair that is completely devoid of sebum
is harsh, difficult to style, and dull. Some persons wish to shampoo daily as a hygiene
ritual, whether there has been adequate sebum production or not. Thus, shampoos
formulated for dry, damaged, or chemically treated hair frequently contain a
conditioner. The conditioner functions to impart manageability, gloss, and antistatic
properties to the hair. These are usually fatty alcohols, fatty esters, vegetable oils,
mineral oils, or humectants. Commonly used conditioning substances include
hydrolyzed animal protein, glycerin, dimethicone, simethicone, polyvinylpyrrolidone,
propylene glycol, and stearalkonium chloride.[5] Protein-derived substances are
popular conditioners for damaged hair, as they can temporarily mend split ends, also
medically known as trichoptilosis. Split ends arise when the protective cuticle has been
lost from the distal hair shaft and the exposed cortex splits. Protein is attracted to the
keratin, a property known as substantivity, and the protein holds the cortex fragments
together until the next shampooing occurs[6].
HAIR KERATIN AND pH OF SHAMPOO
The scalp pH is 5.5 and the hair shaft pH is 3.67. The pH at which a protein or
particle does not migrate (moment of charge neutrality) in an electric field is the
isoelectric point (3.67 pH). The pH of which a protein or particle has an equivalent
number of total positive and negative charges is called the isoionic point (pH-5.6). A
protein that is in a pH region below its isoelectric point will be positively charged, and
vice versa. Any product applied on hair that has pH higher than 3.67 may increase the
negative electrical net charge of the hair fibre surface and, therefore, increase the
friction between the fibres increasing the damage to the A‐layer and the epicuticle of
the hair fibre [7,8]. Rinsing hair with water (pH-7), increases negativity, creates frizz.
Water penetrates the scales that open, hydrating the strand and breaking the hydrogen
bonds of the keratin molecule. Keratin is a spiral molecule that keeps itself in that shape
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due to chemical bonds. To tackle the effects of shampoo with a high pH, it is necessary
to choose a shampoo with a pH lower than 5.5 by using a ‘pH balancing’ shampoo with
the addition of an acidic substance such as glycolic acid, adding cationic ingredients to
shampoo or by using a conditioner after shampoo. A conditioner of low‐pH neutralizes
electric charge, reduce the frizz effect and close cuticular cells.A high pH shampoo,
will have a positive effect in oily and thin hair, as it can add volume to the hair post
shampoo because of the increase in static electricity. However, a pH higher than 5.5
may cause irritation of the scalp [9] . Foaming agents They introduce gas bubbles into
the water but have nothing to do with cleansing, a common myth among general
population that a product which foams better cleans better. Inclusion of foam boosters
like cocodiethanolamide as ingredients in shampoo helps to satisfy the customer
psyche which equates good foaming with good cleansing though it does help spread
the detergent over the hair and scalp. This helps in the commercial success of a
shampoo formulation. Sebum inhibits the bubble formulation; therefore, there is more
foam during second shampooing [10,11].
SHAMPOO TYPES
There are many types of shampoos, too numerous to mention in this article,
however, it is worthwhile discussing shampoos by basic type. The basic shampoo
groups are listed in . Shampoos have been formulated in liquids, gels, creams, aerosols,
and powders. Only the liquids will be discussed, as these are the most popular.
Basic shampoo types
Normal hair shampoo
Dry hair shampoo
Damaged hair shampoo
Oily hair shampoo
Everyday shampoo
Deep cleaning shampoo
Baby shampoo
Medicated shampoo
Two-in-one shampoo
Hair dyeing shampoo
ADVERSE REACTIONS
Adverse reactions to shampoos are rare, as the product is rinsed away from the
skin quickly allowing insufficient time for the development of allergic or irritant
contact dermatitis. Probably the most common problem with shampoo is accidental
contact with the mucous membranes, such as the nose and eye. The possible causes of
allergic contact dermatitis are listed in Table[10]
Causes of shampoo-induced allergic contact dermatitis
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Formalin
Parabens
Hexachlorophene
Miranols
If patch testing to a shampoo is required, the shampoos should be diluted to
form a 1-2% aqueous solution for closed patch testing and a 5% aqueous solution for
open patch testing. However, it should be recognized that false positive reactions due
to irritation may still occur. A better assessment may be obtained by patch testing
individual ingredients separately.[12]
Sumarry
Shampoos are a complex formulation of ingredients selected to clean the scalp,
as well as beautify the hair. The right choice of shampoo not only helps to streng then
the hair, but also makes them shiny.
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